From: Subject: The Pilgrimage of Egeria Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 12:03:36 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; type="text/html"; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C6CB63.2870CDC0" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2962 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C6CB63.2870CDC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.ccel.org/m/mcclure/etheria/etheria.htm The Pilgrimage of Egeria

A. K. M. Adam

=20

THE PILGRIMAGE OF ETHERIA


M.L. McClure and = C. L.=20 Feltoe, ed. and trans.
London: Society for Promoting Christian = Knowledge,=20 1919.

Greek text in these pages appears in the = Scholars=20 Press SPIonic typeface, available here for = Windows=20 users, and here for=20 Mac users.
Be it noted that the pilgrim's name is currently spelled = "Egeria"=20 by most scholars.


THE PILGRIMAGE OF ETHERIA

(Much is wanting.)

THE APPROACH = TO SINAI=20

. . . . . . . . .

. . . were pointed out according to the Scriptures. In the meanwhile = we came=20 on foot to a certain place where the mountains, through which we were=20 journeying, opened out and formed an infinitely great valley, quite flat = and=20 extraordinarily beautiful, and across the valley appeared Sinai, the = holy=20 mountain of God. And this place, where the mountains opened out, lies = next to=20 the place where are the graves of lust.1 Now on reaching that = spot,=20 the holy guides who were with us told us, saying: "The custom is that = prayer=20 should be made by those who arrive here, when from this place the mount = of God=20 is first seen." And this we did. The whole distance from that place to = the mount=20 of God was about four miles across the aforesaid great valley.
For = that=20 valley is indeed very great, lying under the slope of the mount of God, = and=20 measuring, as far as we could judge by our sight, or as they told us, = about=20 sixteen miles in length, but they called its=20

1 Eng. Bible, Kibroth-hattaavah, Num. xi. 34.=20

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breadth four miles. We had, therefore, to cross that valley in order = to reach=20 the mountain. Now this is the great and flat valley wherein the children = of=20 Israel waited during those days when holy Moses went up into the mount = of the=20 Lord and remained there forty days and forty nights.1 This = moreover=20 is the valley in which that calf was made,2 and the spot is = shown to=20 this day, for a great stone stands fixed there on the very site. This = also is=20 the same valley at the head of which is the place where, while holy = Moses was=20 feeding his father-in-law's flocks, God spake to him twice out of the = burning=20 bush.3 And as our route was first to ascend the mount of God, = which=20 is in sight here=E3[because] the ascent was easier by the way we were = coming=E3and=20 then to descend to the head of the valley where the bush was, that being = the=20 easier descent, so we determined, having first seen all that we desired, = to=20 descend from the mount of God so as to arrive at the place of the bush, = and=20 thence to return on our journey throughout the whole length of the = valley,=20 together with the men of God, who there showed us each place which is = mentioned=20 in the Scriptures. And so it was done. Thus, going from that spot where = we had=20 prayed when we arrived from Faran,4 our route was to cross the middle of = the=20 head of that valley, and so turn to the mount of God.
Now the whole = mountain=20 group looks as if it were a single peak, but, as you enter the group, = [you see=20 that] there are more than one; the whole group however is called the = mount of=20 God. But that special peak which is crowned by the place where, as it is

1 Exod. xxiv. 18.
2 Exod. = xxxii.
3=20 Exod. iii. I ff.
4 LXX, Fara&n: Eng. Bible, Paran.=20

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written, the Glory of God descended, is in the centre of them=20 all.1 And though all the peaks in the group attain such a = height as I=20 think I never saw before, yet the central one, on which the Glory of God = came=20 down, is so much higher than them all, that when we had ascended it, all = those=20 mountains which we had thought to be high, were so much beneath us as if = they=20 were quite little hills. This is certainly very wonderful, and not, I = think,=20 without the favour of God, that while the central height, which is = specially=20 called Sinai, on which the Glory of the Lord descended, is higher than = all the=20 rest, yet it cannot be seen until you reach its very foot, though before = you go=20 up it. But after that you have fulfilled your desire and descend, you = can see it=20 from the other side, which you cannot do before you begin to ascend. = This I had=20 learned from information given by the brethren before we had arrived at = the=20 mount of God, and after I arrived I saw that it was manifestly so.

THE ASCENT OF SINAI

We reached the mountain late on the sabbath, and arriving at a = certain=20 monastery, the monks who dwelt there received us very kindly, showing us = every=20 kindness; there is also a church and a priest there. We stayed there = that night,=20 and early on the Lord's Day, together with the priest and the monks who = dwelt=20 there, we began the ascent of the mountains one by one. These mountains = are=20 ascended with infinite toil, for you cannot go up gently by a spiral

1 Exod. xix. 18, 20.=20

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track, as we say snail-shell wise, but you climb straight up the = whole way,=20 as if up a wall, and you must come straight down each mountain until you = reach=20 the very foot of the middle one, which is specially called Sinai. By = this way,=20 then, at tha bidding of Christ our God, and helped by the prayers of the = holy=20 men who accompanied us, we arrived at the fourth hour, at the summit of = Sinai,=20 the holy mountain of God, where the law was given, that is, at the place = where=20 the Glory of the Lord descended on the day when the mountain = smoked.1=20 Thus the toil was great, for I had to go up on foot, the ascent being = impossible=20 in the saddle, and yet I did not feel the toil, on the side of the = ascent, I=20 say, the toil, because I realized that the desire which I had was being=20 fulfilled at God's bidding. In that place there is now a church, not = great in=20 size, for the place itself, that is the summit of the mountain, is not = very=20 great; nevertheless, the church itself is great in grace. When, = therefore, at=20 God's bidding, we had arrived at the summit, and had reached the door of = the=20 church, lo, the priest who was appointed to the church came from his = cell and=20 met us, a hale old man, a monk from early life, and an ascetic as they = say here,=20 in short one worthy to be in that place; the other priests also met us, = together=20 with all the monks who dwelt on the mountain, that is, not hindered by = age or=20 infirmity. No one, however, dwells on the very summit of the central = mountain;=20 there is nothing there excepting only the church and the cave where holy = Moses=20 was.2 When the whole

1 Exod. xix. 18.
2 Exod. xxxiii. 22.=20

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passage from the book of Moses had been read in that place, and when = the=20 oblation had been duly made, at which we communicated, and as we were = coming out=20 of the church, the priests of the place gave us = eulogiae,1=20 that is, of fruits which grow on the mountain. For although the holy = mountain=20 Sinai is rocky throughout, so that it has not even a shrub on it, yet = down=20 below, near the foot of the mountains, around either the central height = or those=20 which encircle it, there is a little plot of ground where the holy monks = diligently plant little trees and orchards, and set up oratories with = cells near=20 to them, so that they may gather fruits which they have evidently = cultivated=20 with their own hands from the soil of the very mountain itself. So, = after we had=20 communicated, and the holy men had given us eulogiae, and we had = come out=20 of the door of the church, I began to ask them to show us the several = sites.=20 Thereupon the holy men immediately deigned to show us the various = places. They=20 showed us the cave where holy Moses was when he had gone up again into = the mount=20 of God,2 that he might receive the second tables after he had = broken=20 the former ones when the people sinned; they also deigned to show us the = other=20 sites which we desired to see, and those which they themselves well = knew. But I=20 would have you to know, ladies, reverend sisters, that from=20

1 This word is still used in the Eastern Church for food = which has=20 been blessed by a priest, e. g. the first fruits from an orchard or a = vineyard,=20 viands on a table after "grace" has been pronounced over them, etc. Cf. = Gen.=20 xxxiii. 11, etc. See Brightman, East. Lit. p. 597, and for other = more=20 strictly Iiturgical uses, ibid. p. 577.
2 Exod. = xxxiv. 4.=20

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the place where we were standing, round outside the walls of the = church, that=20 is from the summit of the central mountain, those mountains, which we = could=20 scarcely climb at first, seemed to be so much below us when compared = with the=20 central one on which we were standing, that they appeared to be little = hills,=20 although they were so very great that I thought that I had never seen = higher,=20 except that this central one excelled them by far.
From thence we saw = Egypt=20 and Palestine, and the Red Sea and the Parthenian Sea,1 which = leads=20 to Alexandria and the boundless territories of the Saracens, all so much = below=20 us as to be scarcely credible, but the holy men pointed out each one of = them to=20 us.

HOREB

Having then fulfilled all the desire with which we had hastened to = ascend, we=20 began our descent from the summit of the mount of God which we had = ascended to=20 another mountain joined to it, which is called Horeb, where there is a = church.=20 This is that Horeb where was holy Elijah the prophet, when he fled from = the face=20 of Ahab the king, and where God spake to him and said: What doest = thou here,=20 Elijah?2 as it is written in the books of the Kings. The = cave=20 where holy Elijah lay hid is shown to this day before the door of the = church=20 which is there. A stone altar also is shown which holy Elijah raised to = make an=20 offering to God; thus the holy men deigned to show

1 i. e. the eastern end of the Mediterranean: see=20 Introduction, p. xviii. n.
2 1 Kings xix. 9.=20

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us each place. There, too, we made the oblation, with very earnest = prayer,=20 and also read the passage from the book of the Kings; for it was our = special=20 custom that, when we had arrived at those places which I had desired to = visit,=20 the appropriate passage from the book should always be read. The = oblation having=20 been made there, we came to another place not far off, which the priests = and=20 monks pointed out to us, where holy Aaron had stood with the seventy = elders,=20 when holy Moses was receiving the law from the Lord for the children of=20 Israel.1 In that place, although it is not covered in, there = is a=20 great rock which has a flat surface, rounded in shape, on which those = holy men=20 are said to have stood; there is also in the midst of it a kind of altar = made of=20 stones. The passage from the book of Moses was read there, and one = psalm,=20 suitable to the place. Then, after prayer had been made, we descended = thence.

THE BUSH

And now it began to be about the eighth hour, and there were still = three=20 miles left before we could get out of the mountains which we had entered = late on=20 the previous day; we had not, however, to go out on the same side by = which we=20 had entered, as I said above, because it was necessary that we should = walk past=20 and see all the holy places and the cells that were there, and thus come = out at=20 the head of the valley, as I said above, that is of the valley that lies = under=20 the mount of God. It was necessary for us to come out

1 Exod. xxiv. 9-14.=20

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at the head of the valley, because there were very many cells of holy = men=20 there, and a church in the place where the bush is, which same bush is = alive to=20 this day and throws out shoots. So having made the whole descent of the = mount of=20 God we arrived at the bush about the tenth hour. This is that bush which = I=20 mentioned above, out of which the Lord spake in the fire to Moses, and = the same=20 is situated at that spot at the head of the valley where there are many = cells=20 and a church. There is a very pleasant garden in front of the church, = containing=20 excellent and abundant water, and the bush itself is in this garden. The = spot is=20 also shown hard by where holy Moses stood when God said to him: Loose = the=20 latchet of thy shoe, and the rest.1 Now it was about the = tenth=20 hour when we had arrived at the place, and so, as it was late, we could = not make=20 the oblation, but prayer was made in the church and also at the bush in = the=20 garden, and the passage from the book of Moses was read according to = custom.=20 Then, as it was late, we took a meal with the holy men at a place in the = garden=20 before the bush; we stayed there also, and next day, rising very early, = we asked=20 the priests that the oblation should be made there, which was done.=20

THE SITES IN THE VALLEY AND THE RETURN TO FARAN

And as our route lay through the middle and along the length of the=20 valley--the same valley, as I said above, where the children of Israel = sojourned=20 while

1 Exod. iii. 5.=20

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Moses ascended into the mount of God and descended thence--so the = holy men=20 showed us each place that we came to in the whole valley. At the top of = the head=20 of the valley where we had stayed and had seen the bush out of which God = spake=20 in the fire to holy Moses, we had seen also the spot on which holy Moses = had=20 stood before the bush when God said to him: Loose the latchet of thy = shoe,=20 for the place whereon thou standest is holy ground.1 In = like=20 manner they began to show us the other sites when we set out from the = bush. They=20 showed us the place where the camps of the children of Israel were in = those days=20 when Moses was in the mount. They also showed us the place where the = calf was=20 made, for a great stone is there to this day, fixed on the very spot. = Then, too,=20 as we were going on the other side we saw the top of the mountain which=20 overlooks the whole valley; from which place holy Moses saw the children = of=20 Israel engaged in dancing at the time when they had made the = calf.2=20 They showed us a great rock in the place where holy Moses, as he was = descending=20 with Joshua the son of Nun, in his anger brake the tables that he was = carrying,=20 on the same rock. They showed us where they all had their dwelling = places in the=20 valley, the foundations of which dwelling places appear to this day, = round in=20 form and made with stone. They showed us also the place where holy = Moses, when=20 he returned from the mount, bade the children of Israel run from gate = to=20 gate.3 They showed us also the place where the calf which = Aaron=20 had made for them was burnt at holy Moses' bidding. They showed=20

1 Exod. iii. 5.
2 Exod. xxxii. = 19.
3=20 Exod, xxxii. 27.=20

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us also the stream of which holy Moses made the children of Israel = drink, as=20 it is written in Exodus.1 They showed us also the place where = the=20 seventy men received of the spirit that was upon Moses.2 They = showed=20 us also the place where the children of Israel lusted for meat. They = showed us=20 also the place which is called a Burning, because part of the camp was = consumed=20 what time holy Moses prayed, and the fire ceased.3 They = showed us=20 also the place where it rained manna and quails upon them.4 = Thus were=20 shown to us (the sites of) all the events which in the sacred books of = Moses are=20 recorded to have occurred there, viz., in the valley which, as I have = said, lies=20 under the mount of God, holy Sinai. Now it would be too much to write of = all=20 these things one by one, for so great a number could not be remembered, = but when=20 your affection5 shall read the holy books of Moses it will = more=20 quickly recognize the things that were done in that place. Moreover this = is the=20 valley where the Passover was celebrated when one year had been = fulfilled after=20 that the children of Israel were come out of the land of = Egypt.6 For=20 the children of Israel abode in that valley for some time, that is, = while holy=20 Moses ascended into and descended from the

1 Exod. xvii. 5; or possibly the reference is to xxxii.=20 20.
2 Num. xi. 25.
3 Eng. Bible, = Taberah,=20 Num. xi. 2, 3.
4 Exod. xvi. 13, 14.
5 In = addressing=20 her sisters thus, Etheria is following the fashion of her own and = subsequent=20 centuries. In the Coptic ostraca found in Egypt we have many parallel=20 expressions; e.g. on an ostracon from Thebes we read: "I, = Andreas,=20 priest, salute the sweetness of thy honoured brothership" (Hall's = Coptic and=20 Greek Texts, p. 71), and again one monk writes to another: "My=20 insignificance salutes thy brotherhood," ibid. p. = 34.
6=20 Num. ix. 5.=20

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mount of God the first and the second time; they tarried there also = while the=20 tabernacle was being made, together with all things that were shown (to = Moses)=20 in the mount of God. The place also was shown to us where the tabernacle = was set=20 up by Moses1 for the first time, and all things were finished = which=20 God had bidden Moses in the mount that they should be made. At the very = end of=20 the valley we saw the graves of lust,2 at the place where we = resumed=20 our route, that is where, leaving the great valley, we re-entered the = way by=20 which we had come, between the mountains of which I spoke above. On the = same day=20 we came up with the other very holy monks who, through age or infirmity, = were=20 unable to meet us in the mount of God for the making of the oblation, = who yet=20 deigned to receive us very kindly, when we reached their cells. So now = that,=20 together with the holy men who dwelt there, we had seen all the holy = places we=20 desired, as well as all the places which the children of Israel had = touched in=20 going to and from the mount of God, we returned to Faran in the name of = God. And=20 although I ought always to give thanks to God in all things, not to = speak of=20 these so great favours which He has deigned to confer on me, unworthy as = I am,=20 that I should journey through all these places, although I deserved it = not, yet=20 I cannot sufficiently thank even all those holy men who deigned with = willing=20 mind to receive my littleness in their cells and to guide me surely = through all=20 the places which I was always seeking, according to the holy Scriptures. = Moreover, many of these holy men who dwelt on or around the

1 Exod. xl. 17.
2 Num. xi. 34.=20

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mount of God deigned to escort us back to Faran, but these were of = greater=20 bodily strength.

FARAN TO CLYSMA

Now when we had arrived at Faran, which is thirty-five miles distant = from the=20 mount of God, we were obliged to stay there for two days to rest = ourselves. On=20 the third day, hastening thence, we came to a station in the desert of = Faran,=20 where we had stayed on our outward journey, as I said above. On the next = day we=20 came to water, and, travelling for a little while among the mountains, = we=20 arrived at a station which was on the sea, at the place where the route = leaves=20 the mountains, and begins to run continuously by the sea.1 It = runs by=20 the sea in such a manner that at one time the waves touch the feet of = the=20 animals, while at another the course is through the desert, a hundred, = two=20 hundred, and sometimes even more than five hundred paces from the sea, = for there=20 is no sort of a road there, the whole being sandy desert. The = inhabitants of=20 Faran, who are accustomed to travel there with their camels, put signs = in=20 different places, and make for these signs when they travel in the day = time, but=20 the camels mark the signs at night. In short, the inhabitants of Faran = travel=20 more quickly and safely by night in that place, being accustomed = thereto, than=20 other men can travel in places where there is a clear road. Thus on our = return=20 journey we emerged from the mountains

1 Professor Flinders Petrie in commenting on this passage, = tells=20 me: "The route along the west coast is very truly described, and is = striking=20 after being some days entirely in the desert."=20

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at the place where we entered them on our journey out, and so turned = towards=20 the sea. So also did the children of Israel return from Sinai, the mount = of God,=20 to this place by the way they had come, that is, to the place where we = left the=20 mountains and reached the Red Sea. But while we turned back from this = spot along=20 the route by which we had made our journey out, the children of Israel = marched=20 hence on their own way, as it is written in the books of holy = Moses.1=20 So we returned to Clysma by the same route and the same stations by = which we had=20 come out, and when we had arrived at Clysma we were obliged to stay = there also=20 for rest, because we had travelled hard along the sandy way of the = desert.

CLYSMA TO THE CITY OF ARABIA

Now although I had been acquainted with the land of Goshen ever since = I was=20 in Egypt for the first time, yet [I visited it again] in order that I = might see=20 all the places which the children of Israel touched on their journey out = from=20 Rameses, until they reached the Red Sea at the place which is now called = Clysma=20 from the fort which is there. I desired therefore that we should go from = Clysma=20 to the land of Goshen,2 that is, to the city called Arabia, = which=20 city is in the land of Goshen. The whole territory is called after the = city, the=20 land of Arabia, the land of Goshen, although it is part of Egypt. It is = much=20 better land than all the rest of Egypt. From Clysma, that is from the=20

1 Num. x. 12 and xxxiii. 36.
2 Gesse = in the=20 text, cf. Gen. xlvi. 34, LXX, e)n=20 gh|~ Ge&sem 'Arabi/a.=20

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Red Sea, there are four desert stations, but though in the desert, = yet there=20 are military quarters at the stations with soldiers and officers who = always=20 escorted us from fort to fort. On that journey the holy men who were = with us,=20 clergy and monks, showed us all the places which I was always seeking in = accordance with the Scriptures; some of these were on the left, some on = the=20 right of our path, some were far distant from, and some near to our = route. For I=20 hope that your affection will believe me [when I say that], as far as I = could=20 see, the children of Israel marched in such wise that as far as they = went to the=20 right, so far did they turn back to the left; as far as they went = forward, so=20 far did they return backward, journeying thus until they reached the Red = Sea.=20 Epauleum1 was shown to us from the opposite side, when we = were at=20 Migdol,2 where there is now a fort with an officer set over = soldiers=20 to maintain Roman discipline. These escorted us thence, according to = custom, to=20 another fort, and Baal-zephon3 was shown to us, when we were = at that=20 place.4 It is a plain above the Red Sea, a]ong the side of = the=20 mountain which I mentioned above, where the children of Israel cried out = when=20 they saw the Egyptians coming after them. Etham5 also was = shown to=20 us, which is on the edge of the wilderness, as it is written, also = Succoth,=20 which is a slight elevation in the middle of a valley, and by this

1 Epauleum. 'Ape&nanti th~v e)pau&lewv, Exod. xiv. 2, LXX, = i.e.=20 opposite the military quarters. The Eng. Bible has before=20 Pi-hahiroth.
2 Magdalum in text. Magdw&lou, Exod. xiv. 2,=20 LXX.
3 Belsefon in text. Beelsepfw&n, Exod. xiv. 2, LXX.
4 = Exod. xiv.=20 10.
5 Oton in text. 'Oqo&m, Exod. xiii. 20, LXX.

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little hill the children of Israel encamped. This is the place where = the law=20 of the Passover was received.1 The city of Pithom, which the = children=20 of Israel built,2 was shown to us on the same journey at the = place=20 where, leaving the lands of the Saracens, we entered the territory of = Egypt; the=20 same Pithom is now a fort. The city of Hero,3 which existed = at the=20 time when Joseph met his father Jacob as he came, as it is written in = the book=20 of Genesis, is now a come,4 though a large one--a = village as=20 we say. This village has a church and martyr-memorials, and many cells = of holy=20 monks, so that we had to alight to see each of them, in accordance with = the=20 custom which we had. The village is now called Hero; it is situated at = the=20 sixteenth milestone from the land of Goshen, and it is within the = boundaries of=20 Egypt; moreover, it is a very pleasant spot, for an arm of the Nile = flows there.=20 Then, leaving Hero, we came to the city which is called Arabia, situated = in the=20 land of Goshen, for it is written concerning it that Pharaoh said to = Joseph,=20 In the best of the land of Egypt make thy father and brethren to = dwell, in=20 the land of Goshen, in the land of Arabia.5

RAMESES

Rameses is four miles from the city of Arabia, and in order to arrive = at the=20 station of Arabia, we passed through the midst of Rameses. The city of = Rameses=20 is now open country, without a single habitation, but

1 Exod. xii. 43 ff.
2 Exod. i. = 11.
3=20 Hero. The LXX has (Gen. xlvi. 29)  9Hrw&wn po&lin, the Eng. Bible, = Goshen. For=20 the "city of Arabia " (?Thou) see p. xix.
4 Greek kw&mh, a village. =
5=20 Gen. xlvii. 6.

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it is certainly traceable, since it was great in circumference and = contained=20 many buildings, for its ruins appear to this day in great numbers, just = as they=20 fell. There is nothing there now except one great Theban stone, on which = are=20 carved two statues of great size, which they say are those of the holy = men,=20 Moses and Aaron, raised in their honour by the children of Israel. There = is also=20 a sycomore tree, which is said to have been planted by the patriarchs; = it is=20 certainly very old, and therefore very small, though it still bears = fruit. And=20 all who have any indisposition go there and pluck off twigs, and it = benefits=20 them. This we learned from information given by the holy bishop of = Arabia, who=20 himself told us the name of the tree in Greek--dendros alethiae, = or as we=20 say, the tree of truth. This holy bishop deigned to meet us at Rameses; = he is an=20 elderly man, truly pious from the time he became a monk, courteous, most = kind in=20 receiving pilgrims, and very learned in the Scriptures of God. He, after = deigning to give himself the trouble of meeting us, showed us everything = there=20 and told us about the aforesaid statues, as well as about the sycomore = tree.=20 This holy bishop also informed us how Pharaoh, when he saw that the = children of=20 Israel had escaped him, before he set out after them, went with all his = army=20 into Rameses and burnt the whole city which was very great, and then set = out=20 thence in pursuit of the children of Israel.=20

EPIPHANY AT THE CITY OF ARABIA
RETURN TO JERUSALEM

Now it fell out by a very happy chance that the day on which we came = to the=20 station of Arabia was

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the eve of the most blessed day of the Epiphany, and the vigils were = to be=20 kept in the church on the same day. Wherefore the holy bishop detained = us there=20 for some two days, a holy man and truly a man of God, well known to me = from the=20 time when I had been in the Thebaid. He became a holy bishop after bein] = a monk,=20 for he was brought up from a child in a cell, for which reason he is so = learned=20 in the Scriptures and chastened in his whole life, as I said above. From = this=20 place we sent back the soldiers who according to Roman discipline had = given us=20 the help of their escort as long as we had walked through suspected = places. Now,=20 however, as the public road--which passed by the city of Arabia and = leads from=20 the Thebaid to Pelusium--ran through Egypt, there was no need to trouble = the=20 soldiers further. Setting out thence we pursued our journey continuously = through=20 the land of Goshen, among vines that yield wine and vines that yield = balsam,=20 among orchards, highly cultivated fields and very pleasant gardens, our = whole=20 route lying along the bank of the river Nile among oft-recurring = estates, which=20 were once the homesteads of the children of Israel. And why should I say = more?=20 for I think that I have never seen a more beautiful country than the = land of=20 Goshen. And travelling thus for two days from the city of Arabia through = the=20 land of Goshen continuously, we arrived at Tatnis,1 the city = where=20 holy Moses was born. This city of Tatnis was once Pharaoh's metropolis. = Now

1 Tatnis, i.e. Zoan (Numb. xiii. 22), but = Archbp.=20 Bernard conjectures Taphnis, in which case the place would be the = Tahpanhes of Jer. xliii. 7 ff. (LXX Tafna&v). For its connexion with "Pharaoh" see = Hastings'=20 D.B. vol. iv. p. 674. The birth-place of Moses is not mentioned = in the=20 Bible.

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although I had already known these places--as I said above--when I = had been=20 at Alexandria and in the Thebaid, yet I wished to learn thoroughly all = the=20 places through which the children of Israel marched on their journey = from=20 Rameses to Sinai, the holy mountain of God; this made it necessary to = return to=20 the land of Goshen and thence to Tatnis. We set out from Tatnis and, = walking=20 along the route that was already known to me, I came to Pelusium. Thence = I set=20 out again, and journeying through all those stations in Egypt through = which we=20 had travelled before, I arrived at the boundary of Palestine. Thence in = the Name=20 of Christ our God I passed through several stations in Palestine and = returned to=20 Aelia,1 that is Jerusalem.

VISIT TO THE JORDAN VALLEY

Having spent some time there, at God's bidding my will was to go as = far as=20 Arabia, to mount Nebo, where God commanded Moses to go up, saying to = him: Get=20 thee up into the mountain Arabot,2 into Mount Nebo, = which is=20 in the land of Monb, that is over against Jericho, and behold the land = of=20 Canaan, which I give unto the children of Israel for a possession, and = die in=20 the Mount whither thou goest up. So Jesus our God, who will not = forsake them=20 that hope in Him, deigned to give effect to this my wish. Wherefore

1 Helia in the text. Aelia Capitolina was the name = given to=20 the colony, which the Emperor Hadrian set up on Mount Sion A.D. 132. The = retention of the name by an ecclesiastic like Etheria points to an early = rather=20 than a late date for her visit: see Heinichen on Eus., H.E. iv.=20 6.
2 The LXX here (Deut. xxxii. 49 f.) has 'Abarei/n (Eng. Bible, = Abarim). The=20 Pilgrim has apparently put Arabot (LXX 'Arabw&q =3D plains in Heb.) by mistake. See note 4 = on p. 19.=20

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setting out from Jerusalem and journeying with holy men, with a = priest and=20 deacons from Jerusalem and with certain brothers, that is monks, we came = to that=20 spot on the Jordan where the children of Israel had crossed when holy = Joshua,=20 the son of Nun, had led them over Jordan, as it is written in the book = of=20 Joshua, the son~of Nun.1 The place where the children of = Reuben and=20 of Gad and the half tribe of Manasseh had made an altar was shown us a = little=20 higher up2 on that side of the river-bank where Jericho is. = Crossing=20 the river we came to a city called Livias,3 which is in the = plain=20 where the children of Israel encamped at that time, for the foundations = of the=20 camp of the children of Israel and of their dwellings where they abode = appear=20 there to this day. The plain is a very great one, lying under the = mountains of=20 Arabia above the Jordan; it is the place of which it is = written:4=20 And the children of Israel wept for Moses in the Arabot Moab on the = Jordan=20 over against Jericho, forty days. This is the place where, after = Moses'=20 death, Joshua the son of Nun was straightway filled with the spirit = of=20 wisdom, for Moses had laid his hands upon him, as it is = written.5=20 This is the place where Moses wrote the book of Deuteronomy, and where = he=20 spake in the cars of all the congregation of Israel the

1 Josh. iii. 14; xxii. 10, 11.
2 i.e. = on the=20 west side.
3 This is the Beth-haran of Numb. xxxii. = 36 and=20 Josh. xiii. 27, which was rebuilt and called Livias by Herod the = Tetrarch in=20 honour of the Empress Livia.
4 Deut. xxxiv. 8. The LXX = has: e)n 'Arabw_q Mwa&b e)pi\ tou~ = 'Iorda&nou=20 kata_  9Iereixw_ tria&konta h(me&rav. The Eng. Bible = puts=20 "plains of Moab" instead of "Arabot M." The Pilgrim's "forty days" for = "thirty"=20 is no doubt an error.
5 Deut. xxxiv. 9.

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words of this song until it was ended; it is written in the = book of=20 Deuteronomy.1 Here holy Moses, the man of God, blessed the=20 children2 of Israel one by one, in order, before his=20 death.3 So when we had arrived at this plain, we went to the = very=20 spot, and prayer was made; here, too, a certain part of Deuteronomy was = read, as=20 well as his song, with the blessings which he pronounced over the = children of=20 Israel; after the reading, prayer was made a second time, and giving = thanks to=20 God, we moved on thence. For it was always customary with us that, = whenever we=20 succeeded in reaching the places we desired to visit, prayer should = first be=20 made there, then the lection should be read from the book, then one = appropriate=20 psalm should be said, then prayer should be made again. At God's bidding = we=20 always kept to this custom, whenever we were able to come to the places = we=20 desired. After this, that the work begun should be accomplished, we = began to=20 hasten in order to reach mount Nebo. As we went, the priest of the = place, i.=20 e. Livias, whom we had prayed to accompany us from the station, = because he=20 knew the places well, advised us, saying: "If you wish to see the water = which=20 flows from the rock, which Moses gave to the children of Israel when = they were=20 thirsty, you can see it if you are willing to undertake the labour of = going=20 about six miles out of the way." When he had said this, we very eagerly = wished=20 to go, and turning at once out of our way, we followed the priest who = led us. In=20 that place there is a little church under a mountain, not Nebo, but

1 Deut. xxxi. 30.
2 i. e. the = tribes.=20
3 Deut. xxxiii.=20

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another height behind, yet not far from Nebo. Many truly holy monks = dwell=20 there, whom they call here ascetics.
These holy monks deigned to = receive us=20 very kindly, and permitted us to go in to greet them. When we had = entered and=20 prayer had been made with them, they deigned to give us=20 eulogiae,1 which they are wont to give to those whom = they=20 receive kindly. There, in the midst, between the church and the cells, = there=20 flows from out of the rock a great stream of water, very beautiful and = limpid,=20 and excellent to the taste. Then we asked those holy monks who dwelt = there what=20 was this water of so good a flavour, and they said: "This is the water = which=20 holy Moses gave to the children of Israel in this desert."2 = So prayer=20 was made there according to custom, the lection was read from the books = of Moses=20 and one psalm said, then--with the holy clergy and monks who had come = with=20 us--we went out to the mountain. Many of the holy monks also who dwelt = by that=20 water, and who could undertake the labour, deigned to ascend mount Nebo = with us.=20 So setting out thence, we arrived at the foot of mount Nebo, which was = very=20 high; nevertheless the greater part could be ascended sitting on asses, = though a=20 little bit was steeper and had to be climbed laboriously on foot, which = was=20 done.

1 Archbp. Bernard translates this "gifts of blessing." = Small=20 loaves, called "blessings" were sent by ecclesiastics to one another. = See=20 supra, p. 5. Cf. Bigg, Wayside Studies in Eccles. History, = p.=20 38.
2 Cf. Num. xx. 11.=20

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MOUNT NEBO

We arrived, then, at the summit of the mountain, where there is now a = church=20 of no great size, on the very top of mount Nebo. Inside the church, in = the place=20 where the pulpit is, I saw a place a little raised, containing about as = much=20 space as tombs usually contain. I asked the holy men what this was, and = they=20 answered: "Here was holy Moses laid by the angels, for, as it is = written: No=20 man knoweth of his burial,1 since it is certain that he = was=20 buried by the angels. His tomb, indeed, where he was laid, is = [not2]=20 shown to this day; for as it was shown to us by our ancestors who dwelt = here=20 where [he was laid], so do we show it to you, and our ancestors said = that this=20 tradition was handed down to them by their own ancestors." So prayer was = made=20 anon, and all things that we were accustomed to do in their order in = every place=20 were done here also, and we began to go out of the church. Then they who = knew=20 the place--the priests and holy monks--said to us: " If you wish to see = the=20 places that are mentioned in the books of Moses, come out of the door of = the=20 church, and from the very summit, from the side on which they are = visible from=20 here, look and see,3 and we will tell you each place that is visible = from=20 hence." Then we rejoiced greatly and immediately came out. From the door = of the=20 church

1 Deut. xxxiv. 6. Archbp. Bernard translates = sepulturam,=20 how he was buried, and his note in loc. is: "I have = followed Geyer=20 in supposing that the monks interpreted sepultura of the = act=20 rather than of the place of burial: in no other way is it = possible to=20 make sense of the passage."
2 Geyer, note in loc., = thinks=20 that the non should be deleted.
3 Cf. Lam. i. 12.=20

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we saw the place where the Jordan runs into the Dead Sea, which place = appeared below us as we stood. On the opposite side we saw not only = Livias,=20 which was on the near side of Jordan, but also Jericho, which was beyond = Jordan;=20 to so great a height rose the lofty place where we stood, before the = door of the=20 church. The greatest part of Palestine, the land of promise, was in = sight,=20 together with the whole land of Jordan, as far as it could be seen with = our=20 eyes. On the left side we saw all the lands of the Sodomites and=20 Segor1 which is the only one of the five cities that exists = to-day.=20 There is a memorial of it, but nothing appears of those other cities but = a heap=20 of ruins, just as they were turned into ashes. The place where was the=20 inscription concerning Lot's wife was shown to us, which place is read = of in the=20 Scriptures.2 But believe me, reverend ladies, the pillar = itself=20 cannot be seen, only the place is shown, the pillar is said to have been = covered=20 by the Dead Sea. Certainly when we saw the place we saw no pillar, I = cannot=20 therefore deceive you in this. The bishop of the place, that is of = Segor, told=20 us that it is now some years since the pillar could be seen. The spot = where the=20 pillar stood is about six miles from Segor, and the water now covers the = whole=20 of this space. Then we went to the right side of the church, out of = doors and=20 opposite to us two cities were pointed out, the one Esebon,3 = now=20 called Exebon, which belonged to Seon, king of the Amorites, and the = other, now=20 called

1 LXX Sh/gwr, Eng.=20 Bible Zoar. Gen. xiv. 2; Deut. xxxiv. 3.
2 Gen. xix. = 23-26.=20 ?titulis (inscription) =3D sthlh& (tombstone here.
3 LXX  9Esebw&n, Eng. = Bible, Heshbon,=20 Numb. xxi. 26, Deut. iv. 46.=20

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Sasdra,1 the city of Og the king of Basan. = Fogor,2=20 which was a city of the kingdom of Edom, was also pointed out from = thence,=20 opposite to us. All these cities which we saw were situated on = mountains, but a=20 little below them the ground seemed fo be flatter. Then we were told = that in the=20 days when holy Moses and the children of Israel had fought against those = cities,=20 they had encamped there, and indeed the signs of a camp were visible = there.=20 [From] the side of the mountain which I have called the left, which was = over the=20 Dead Sea, a very sharp-cut mountain was shown to us, which was formerly = called=20 Agri specula.3 This is the mountain on which Balak the son of = Beor=20 placed Balaam the sooth-sayer to curse the children of Israel, and God = refused=20 to permit it, as it is written. Then, having seen everything that we = desired, we=20 returned in the Name of God through Jericho back to Jerusalem along the = whole of=20 the route by which we had come.

VISIT TO AUSITIS

Now after some time I wished to go to the region of = Ausitis4 to=20 visit the tomb of holy Job, for the sake of prayer. For I used to see = many holy=20 monks coming thence to Jerusalem to visit the holy places for the sake = of=20 prayer, who, giving information of everything concerning those places, = increased=20 my desire to

1 LXX 'Edra&eim,=20 Eng. Bible, Edrei. Numb. xxi. 33; Deut. iii. 10.
2 LXX = Fogw&r, Eng. Bible, Peor. = Numb. xxiii.=20 28; Deut. iv. 46.
3 i.e. the a)grou~ skopia& (peak of the field) of the LXX. = Numb. xxiii=20 14. The Eng. Bible has "the field of Zophim."
4 LXX Au)si=3Dtiv, Eng. Bible Uz, = Job i. 1.=20

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undertake the toil of going to them also, if indeed that can be = called toil=20 by which a man sees his desire to be fulfilled. So I set out from = Jerusalem with=20 the holy men who deigned to give me their company on my journey--they = themselves=20 also going for the sake of prayer--making my journey from Jerusalem = through=20 eight stations to Carneas. The city of Job is now called Carneas, but it = was=20 formerly called Dennaba,1 in the land of Ausitis, on the = confines of=20 Idumea and Arabia. Travelling on this journey I saw on the bank of the = river=20 Jordan a very beautiful and pleasant valley abounding in vines and = trees, for=20 much excellent water was there, and in that valley there was a large = village,=20 which is now called Sedima. The village, which is situated in the middle = of the=20 level ground, has in its midst a little hill of no great size, shaped as = large=20 tombs are wont to be. There is a church on the summit and down below, = around the=20 little hill great and ancient foundations appear, while in the village = itself=20 some grave-mounds still remain. When I saw this pleasant place I asked = what it=20 was, and it was told me:2 "This is the city of king = Melchizedek,=20 which was called Salem, but now, through the corruption of the language, = the=20 village is called Sedima. On the top of the little hill, which is = situated in=20 the midst of the village, the building that you see is a church, which = is now=20 called in the Greek language opu Melchisedech. For this is the

1 Eng. Bible, Dinhabah, Gen. xxxvi. 32; I Chron. i.=20 43.
2 See Gen. xiv. 8 and 18. The Pilgrim seems to = identify Salem=20 with Salim: see Hastings' D.B. under both names. Gamurrini = conjectures=20 that opu here and below stands for o1ros =3D hill: but ? for o3pou =3D where (Bernard). She never confuses r with p elsewhere.=20

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place where Melchizedek offered pure sacrifices--that is bread and = wine--to=20 God, as it is written of him."

THE CITY OF MELCHIZEDEK

Directly I heard this, we alighted from our beasts, and lo! the holy = priest=20 of the place and the clergy deigned to meet us, and straightway = receiving us led=20 us up to the church. When we had arrived there, prayer was first said = according=20 to custom, then the passage from the book of holy Moses was read, then = one psalm=20 suitable to the place was said, then, after prayer made, we came down. = When we=20 had come down the holy priest addressed us. He was an elderly man, well = taught=20 in the Scriptures, and he had presided over the place from the time he = had been=20 a monk, to whose life many bishops--as we learned afterwards--bore great = testimony, saying that he was worthy to preside over the place where = holy=20 Melchizedek--when Abraham was coming to meet him--was the first to offer = pure=20 sacrifices to God. When we had come down from the church, as I said = above, the=20 holy priest said to us: "Behold, these foundations which you see around = the=20 little hill are those of the palace of king Melchizedek. For from his = time to=20 the present day if any one wishes to build himself a house here, and so = strikes=20 on these foundations, he sometimes finds little fragments of silver and = bronze.=20 And this way which you see passing between the river Jordan and this = village is=20 the way by which holy Abraham returned to Sodom, after the slaughter of=20 Chedorlaomer1 king

1 In Gen. xiv. 1 Chedorlaomer is called king of Elam and = Tidal,=20 king of Goiim (or nations, LXX e)qnw~n).=20

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of nations, and where holy Melchizedek, the king of Salem, met him."

AENON

Then, because I remembered that it was written1 that S. = John had=20 baptized in AEnon near to Salim, I asked him how far off that place was. = The=20 holy priest answered: "It is near, two hundred paces off, and, if you = wish, I=20 will now lead you there on foot. This large and pure stream of water, = which you=20 see in this village, comes from that spring." Then I began to thank him = and to=20 ask him to lead us to the place, which was done. So we began to go with = him on=20 foot through the very pleasant valley, until we reached a most pleasant = orchard,=20 in the midst of which he showed us a spring of excellent and pure water, = which=20 sent out continuously a good stream. The spring had in front of it a = sort of=20 pool, where it appears that S. John the Baptist fulfilled his ministry. = Then the=20 holy priest said to us: "This garden is called nothing else to this day=20 than2 cepos tu agiu iohannu in the Greek language, or = as you=20 say in Latin, hortus sancti Johannis. Many brethren, holy monks, = direct=20 their steps hither from various places that they may wash there." So at = the=20 spring, as in every place, prayer was made, the proper lection was read = and an=20 appropriate psalm was said, and everything that it was customary for us = to do=20 whenever we came to the holy places, we did there also. The holy priest = also=20 told us that to this day, at Easter, all they who are to be baptized in = the=20 village, that is in the church

1 S. John iii. 23.
2 kh&pov tou~ a(gi/ou 'Iwa&nnou (the garden of = Saint John).=20

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which is called opus Melchisedech,1 are always = baptized in=20 this spring, returning early to vespers with the clergy and monks, = saying psalms=20 and antiphons, so that they who have been baptized are led back early = from the=20 fountain to the church of holy Melchizedek. Then, receiving=20 eulogiae2 out of the orchard of S. John the Baptist = from the=20 priest, as well as from the holy monks who had cells in the same = orchard, and=20 always giving thanks to God, we set out on the way we were going.

THE CITY OF ELIJAH. THE BROOK CHERITH

Then going for a time through the valley of the Jordan on the bank of = the=20 river, because our route lay that way for a while, we suddenly saw the = city of=20 the holy prophet Elijah, that is Thesbe, whence he had the name of = Elijah the=20 Tishbite.3 There, to this day, is the cave wherein the holy = man sat;=20 there too is the tomb of holy Getha,4 whose name we read in = the books=20 of the Judges. There too we gave thanks to God according to custom and = pursued=20 our journey. And as we journeyed that way we saw a very pleasant valley = opening=20 towards us on the left; it was very large and discharged a very great = torrent=20 into the Jordan, and in that valley we saw the cell of one who is now a = brother,=20 that is a monk. Then I, as I am very inquisitive, began to ask what was = this=20 valley where the holy monk had now made himself a cell,

1 See p. 5, note 2.
2 See note above, p. 5=20
3 LXX o( = Qesbei/thv e)k=20 Qesbw~n th~v Galaa&d, I Kings xvii. 1; the A.V. has "the=20 inhabitants," the R.V. "the sojourners of Gilead."
4 = i.e.=20 Jephthah, Judg xii. 7 (Geyer) or perhaps Jether, Judg. viii. 20 = (Bernard).=20

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for I did not think it was without reason. Then the holy men who were = journeying with us, and who knev the place, said, " This is the valley = of=20 Corra,1 where holy Elijah the Tishbite dwelt in the time of king Ahab,2 = when=20 there was a famine, and at the bidding of God the raven used to bring = him food,=20 and he drank water of the torrent. For this brook which you see running = through=20 this valley into Jordan, is Corra." Wherefore giving thanks to God Who = deigned=20 to show us every thing that we desired, unworthy as we were, we beg to = make our=20 journey as on other days. And as we journeyed day by day, on the left = side,=20 whence on the opposite side we saw parts of Phoenicia, there suddenly = appeared a=20 great and high mountain which extended in length ....
[A leaf is = torn=20 out.]=20

BURIAL-PLACE OF JOB. RETURN TO JERUSALEM

. . . which holy monk and ascetic, after so many years spent in the = desert,=20 found it necessary to move and to go down to the city of Carneas, in = order to=20 advise the bishop and clergy of that time, according as it had been = revealed to=20 him, that they should dig in that place which had been shown to him; = which was=20 done. And they, digging in that place which ha been shown to him, found = a cave,=20 which they follow for about a hundred paces, when suddenly, as they dug, = a stone=20 tomb came to light, and when they had uncovered it, they found carved on = its lid=20 (the name)

1 LXX Xorra&q,=20 Eng. Bible, Cherith. I Kings xvii. 3.
2 I Kings xvii. 4, = etc.=20

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Job. To this Job the church which you see was then built in that = place, in=20 such a manner that the stone with the body should not be moved, but that = it=20 should be placed, where the body had been found, and that the body = should lie=20 under the altar. That church, which was built by some tribune, has been=20 unfinished to this day. Next morning we asked the bishop to make the = oblation,=20 which he deigned to do, and the bishop blessing us, we set out. There = too we=20 communicated, and always giving thanks to God we returned to Jerusalem,=20 journeying through each of the stations through which we had passed = three years=20 before.

JOURNEY INTO MESOPOTAMIA

Having spent some time there in the Name of God, when three full = years had=20 passed since I came to Jerusalem, and having seen all the holy places = which I=20 had visited for the sake of prayer, my mind was to return to my country. = I=20 wished, however, at God's bidding, to go to Mesopotamia in Syria, to = visit the=20 holy monks who were there in great number, and who were said to be of = such holy=20 life as could hardly be described, and also for the sake of prayer at = the=20 memorial of S. Thomas the Apostle, where his body is laid entire. This = is at=20 Edessa. For Jesus our God by a letter which He sent to Abgar the king by = the=20 hand of Ananias the courier, promised that He would send S. Thomas = thither,=20 after that He Himself had ascended into Heaven.1 The letter = is kept=20 with great reverence at the city of Edessa, where the memorial

=1B=1B 1 See Eus., Hist. Eccl. i. 13.=20

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is. Now your affection may believe me that there is no Christian who = having=20 arrived at the holy places that are at Jerusalem, does not go on thither = for the=20 sake of prayer; it is at the twenty-fifth station from Jerusalem. And = since from=20 Antioch it is nearer to Mesopotamia, it was very convenient for me at = God's=20 bidding that as I was returning to Constantinople, and my way lying = through=20 Antioch, I should go thence to Mesopotamia. This then, at God's bidding, = I did.

ANTIOCH TO MESOPOTAMIA. THE CROSSING OF THE EUPHRATES

Then, setting out from Antioch to Mesopotamia in the Name of Christ = our God,=20 I journeyed through certain stations and cities of the province of = Coele-Syria,=20 which is Antioch, and entering the borders of the province of=20 Augustofratensis,1 I came to the city of = Gerapolis2 which=20 is the metropolis of Augustofratensis. And as this city is very = beautiful and=20 rich and abounds in everything, it was necessary for me to make a halt = there,=20 for the borders of Mesopotamia were not far distant. Then starting from=20 Ierapolis,2 I came, in the Name of God, at the fifteenth = milestone to=20 the river Euphrates, of which it is very well written that it is the = great=20 river Euphrates3; it is huge and, as it were, terrible, = for it=20 flows down with a current like the river Rhone, only the Euphrates is = still=20 greater. And as we had to cross in ships, and in large ships only, I = waited=20 there until after midday, and then in the Name

1 i. e. Augusta Euphratensis.
2 i. = e.=20 Hierapolis.
3 Gen. xv. 18.=20

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of God I crossed the river Euphrates and entered the borders of = Mesopotamia=20 in Syria.

EDESSA

Then, journeying through certain stations, I came to a city whose = name we=20 read recorded in the Scriptures--Batanis,1 which city exists = to-day:=20 it has a church with a truly holy bishop, both monk and confessor, and = certain=20 martyr-memorials. The city has a teeming population, and the soldiery = with their=20 tribune are stationed there. Departing thence, we arrived at Edessa in = the Name=20 of Christ our God, and, on our arrival, we straightway repaired to the = church=20 and memorial of saint Thomas. There, according to custom, prayers were = made and=20 the other things that were customary in the holy places were done; we = read also=20 some things concerning saint Thomas himself. The church there is very = great,=20 very beautiful and of new construction, well worthy to be the house of = God, and=20 as there was much that I desired to see, it was necessary for me to make = a three=20 days' stay there. Thus I saw in that city many memorials, together with = holy=20 monks, some dwelling at the memorials, while others had their cells in = more=20 secluded spots farther from the city. Moreover, the holy bishop of the = city, a=20 truly devout man, both monk and confessor, received me willingly and = said: "As I=20 see, daughter, that for the sake of devotion you have undertaken so = great a=20 labour in coming to these places from far-distant lands, if you are = willing, we

1 Bathnae in Osrhoene (Bernard). There seems to be no = reference to=20 this place in Holy Scripture.=20

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will show you all the places that are pleasant to the sight of = Christians."=20 Then, first thanking God, I besought the bishop much that he would deign = to do=20 as he said. He thereupon led me first to the palace of King Abgar, where = he=20 showed me a great marble statue of him--very much like him, as they = said--having=20 a sheen as if made of pearl. From the face of Abgar it seemed that he = was a very=20 wise and honourable man. Then the holy bishop said to me: "Behold King = Abgar,=20 who before he saw the Lord believed in Him that He was in truth the Son = of God."=20 There was another statue near, made of the same marble, which he said = was that=20 of his son Magnus; this also had something gracious in the face. Then we = entered=20 the inner part of the palace, and there were fountains full of fish such = as I=20 never saw before, of so great size, so bright and of so good a flavour = were=20 they. The city has no water at all other than that which comes out of = the=20 palace, which is like a great silver river.

THE STORY OF KING ABGARUS

Then the holy bishop told me about the water, saying: " At some time, = after=20 that King Abgar had written to the Lord, and the Lord had answered King = Abgar by=20 Ananias the courier--as it is written in the letter itself--when some = time had=20 passed, the Persians came against the city and surrounded it. And = straightway=20 Abgar, bearing the letter of the Lord to the gate, with all his army, = prayed=20 publicly. And he said: "O Lord Jesus, Thou hadst promised us that none = of our=20 enemies should enter this city, and lo! the=20

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Persians now attack us." And when the king had said this, holding the = open=20 letter in his uplifted hands, suddenly there came a great darkness = outside the=20 city before the eyes of the Persians, as they were approaching the city = at a=20 distance of about three miles, and they were so baffled by the darkness = that=20 they could hardly form their camp and surround the whole city about = three miles=20 off. So baffled were the Persians that they could never afterwards see = the way=20 to enter the city, but they surrounded it and shut it in with their = hostile=20 forces, at a distance of about three miles, for several months. Then, = when they=20 saw that they could by no means enter, they wished to slay those within = the city=20 by thirst. Now that little hill which you see, my daughter, over against = the=20 city, supplied it with water at that time, and the Persians, perceiving = this,=20 diverted the water from the city and made it to run near that place = where they=20 had made their camp. And on that day and at that hour when the Persians = diverted=20 the water, the fountains which you see in this place burst forth at once = at=20 God's bidding, and by the favour of God they remain here from that day = to this.=20 But the water which the Persians had diverted was dried up at that hour, = so that=20 they who were besieging the city had nothing to drink for even one day; = which=20 thing is plain to the present time, for no moisture of any sort has ever = been=20 seen there from that day to this. So, at God's bidding, Who had promised = that=20 this should come to pass, they were obliged to return to their own home = in=20 Persia. Moreover afterwards, as often as enemies determined to come and = take the=20 city, this letter was brought out and read in the gate, and straightway = all

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enemies were driven back by the will of God. The holy Bishop also = told me=20 that the place where these fountains broke forth had previously been = open ground=20 within the city, lying under the palace of King Abgar, which same palace = had=20 been situated on somewhat higher ground, as was plainly visible. For the = custom=20 was at that time that, whenever palaces were built, they should always = stand on=20 higher ground. But after that these fountains had burst forth here, then = Abgar=20 built this palace for his son Magnus, whose statue I saw near that of = his=20 father, so that the fountains should be included in the palace. And when = the=20 holy bishop had told me all these things, he said to me: "Let us now go = to the=20 gate by which Ananias the courier entered with the letter of which I = spoke." So=20 when we had come to the gate, the bishop, standing, made a prayer and = read us=20 the letters; then, after he had blessed us, another prayer was made. = Moreover=20 the holy man told us that from the day on which Ananias the courier = entered it=20 with the letter of the Lord, the gate is kept to this day, that no one = who is=20 unclean, nor any mourner, should pass through nor should any dead body = be borne=20 out through it. The holy bishop also showed us the memorial of Abgar and = of his=20 whole family, very beautiful, but made in the ancient style. He took us = also to=20 the palace which King Abgar had at first, on the higher ground, and if = there=20 were any other places he showed them to us. It was very pleasant to me = to=20 receive from the holy man himself the letters of Abgar to the Lord and = of the=20 Lord to Abgar, which the holy bishop had read to us there. For although = I have=20 copies at home, yet it seemed to me more pleasant to receive them from=20

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him, lest perhaps something less might have reached us at home, and = indeed=20 that which I received here is fuller. So if Jesus our God bids it, and I = come=20 home, you too shall read them, ladies, my own souls.

CHARRAE (HARAN)

Then, after three days spent there, it was necessary for me to go = still=20 farther, to Charrae, as it is now called. In holy Scripture it is called = Charran,1 where holy Abraham dwelt, as it is written in = Genesis when=20 the Lord said unto Abram: Get thee out of thy country, and from thy = father's=20 house, and go to Charran and the rest.2 And when I = arrived at=20 Charrae I went straightway to the church which is within the city, and = soon I=20 saw the bishop of the place, a truly holy man of God, both monk and = confessor,=20 who deigned to show us all the places there that we desired. He took us = at once=20 to the church, which is without the city on the spot where stood the = house of=20 holy Abraham; it stands on the same foundations, and it is made of the = same=20 stone, as the holy bishop said. When we had come to the church, prayer = was made,=20 the passage from Genesis was read, one psalm was said, and after a = second prayer=20 the bishop blessed us and we came out. Then he deigned to take us to the = well=20 whence holy Rebecca used to fetch water,3 and the holy bishop = said to=20 us: "Behold the well whence holy Rebecca watered the camels of holy = Abraham's=20 servant Eleazar "; thus he deigned to show us each thing. Now at the = church,=20 which is outside the city,

1 LXX Xaroa&n,=20 Eng. Bible Haran. Gen. xii. 4.
2 Gen. xii. = 1.
3 Gen.=20 xxiv. 15, etc.=20

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as I said, ladies, reverend sisters, where Abraham's house was = originally,=20 there is now the martyr-memorial of a certain holy monk named Helpidius. = It=20 happened very pleasantly for us that we arrived on the day before the = martyr's=20 feast of saint Helpidius, which is on the twenty-third of = April.1 On=20 that day it was of obligation that all the monks from all parts and from = all the=20 borders of Mesopotamia should come down to Charrae, even the greater = ones who=20 dwelt in solitude, whom they call ascetics. For this day is observed = with great=20 dignity there on account of the memorial of holy Abraham, whose house = stood=20 where the church now is, in which the body of the holy martyr is laid. = So it=20 happened to us very pleasantly beyond our expectations that we should = see these=20 holy monks of Mesopotamia, truly men of God, as well as those whose good = report=20 and manner of life had reached men's ears far and wide, whom I thought = that I=20 could not by any means see, not because it was impossible for God to = give me=20 this, Who had deigned to give me all things, but because I had heard = that they=20 never come down from their dwellings except on Easter Day and on this = day. For=20 they are men who do many wonders, and, moreover, I did not know in what = month=20 was the day of the martyr's feast which I have mentioned; but at God's = bidding=20 it came about that I arrived on the day that I had not hoped for. We = stayed=20 there two days, for the memorial day and for the sake of seeing those = holy men,=20 who

1 The ancient Syriac Martyrology (A.D. 411/2), as printed = by=20 Lietzmann (Drei Alt. Mart. p. 12), gives Helpidios and Hermogenes = the=20 martyrs in Melitene (Cappadocia) on May 3rd, not April 23rd.=20

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deigned to receive me very willingly for the sake of salutation, and = to speak=20 with me, of which I was not worthy. Nor were they seen there after the = memorial=20 day, for they sought the desert without delay in the night, each one = returning=20 to his own cell. In that city I found scarcely a single Christian = excepting a=20 few clergy and holy monks--if any such dwell in the city; all are = heathen. And=20 in like manner, as we gazed with great reverence at the place where the = house of=20 holy Abraham was at first for the sake of his memorial, so do those = heathen gaze=20 with great reverence at a place about a mile from the city, where are = the=20 memorials of Nahor and Bethuel. And since the bishop of that city is = very=20 learned in the Scriptures, I asked him, saying: "I beg of you, my lord, = to tell=20 me that which I desire to hear." And he said: "Tell me, daughter, what = you wish,=20 and I will tell it you, if I know it." Then I said: "I know by the=20 Scriptures1 that holy Abraham came to this place with his = father=20 Terah and with Sarah his wife, and with Lot his brother's son, but I = have not=20 read when Nahor and Bethuel came here; I know only that afterwards = Abraham's=20 servant came to Charrae that he might seek Rebecca, the daughter of = Bethuel, the=20 son of Nahor, for Isaac the son of his master Abraham."2 Then = the=20 holy bishop said to me: "Truly, daughter, it is written as you say, in = Genesis,=20 that holy Abraham came here with his relatives, but canonical Scripture = does not=20 say when Nahor and his relatives and Bethuel came here, but it is plain = that=20 they did come here afterwards, since their memorials are here at about a = mile=20 from the city. The Scripture does indeed=20

1 Gen.xi.31.
2 Gen xxiv. 10, 15.=20

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relate1 how holy Abraham's servant came here to take holy = Rebecca,=20 and how holy Jacob came here when he took to himself the daughters of = Laban the=20 Syrian." Then I asked where was the well where holy Jacob watered the = flocks=20 which Rachel, the daughter of Laban the Syrian, was feeding. The bishop = said to=20 me: "The place is six miles hence, near the village which then was the = farm of=20 Laban the Syrian, and if you wish to go there, we will go with you and = show it=20 to you; there are also many very holy monks and ascetics, and a holy = church." I=20 also asked the holy bishop where was that place of the Chaldees where = Terah=20 lived at first with his family,2 and the holy bishop said to = me: "The=20 place, daughter, of which you ask, is at the tenth station hence, as you = go into=20 Persia. There are five stations from here to Nisibis, and five stations = thence=20 to Hur,3 which was a city of the Chaldees, but there is now = no access=20 for Romans, for the Persians hold the whole country.4 This = district=20 is specially called the Eastern; it is on the borders of the Romans, the = Persians and the Chaldees." And many other things he deigned to tell me, = as did=20 also the other holy bishops and holy monks, but all they told us was = from the=20 Scriptures of God or of the acts of holy men, that is of monks, either = the=20 wonderful things that those already departed had done, or what those who = are=20 still in the body do daily, at any rate those who are ascetics. For I = would not=20 that your affection should think that the monks ever told me

1 Gen. xxix. 1, 2, 4.
2 Gen. xi.=20 28.
3 Ur of the Chaldees. Gen. xi. 28.
4 The = Emperor=20 Jovian had been forced to sign a treaty and surrender Nisibis and the = district=20 to Sapor in A.D. 363.=20

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any other stories except from the Scriptures of God or else those of = the acts=20 of the greater monks.

RACHEL'S WELL. THE RETURN TO ANTIOCH

Now after two days which I spent there, the bishop took us to the = well where=20 holy Jacob had watered holy Rachel's flocks;1 the well is six = miles=20 from Charrae, and in its honour a very great and beautiful holy church = has been=20 built hard by. When we had come to the well, prayer was made by the = bishop, the=20 passage frorn Genesis was read, one psalm suitable to the place was said = and,=20 after a second prayer, the bishop blessed us. We saw also, Iying on a = spot near=20 the well, that very great stone which holy Jacob had moved away from the = well,=20 and which is shown to-day. No one dwells there around the well, except = the=20 clergy of the church which is there and the monks who have their cells = near at=20 hand, whose truly unheard-of mode of life the bishop described to us. = Then,=20 after prayer had been made in the church, I visited, in company with the = bishop,=20 the holy monks in their cells, giving thanks both to God and to them, = who=20 deigned with willing mind to receive me in their cells wherever I = entered, and=20 to address me in such words as were fitting to proceed out of their = mouth. They=20 deigned also to give me and all who were with me = eulogiae,2=20 such as is the custom for monks to give those whom they receive with = willing=20 mind into their cells.

1 Gen. xxix. 10.
2 See note above, p. 5.=20

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And the place being in a large plain, a great village over against us = was=20 pointed out to me by the holy bishop, about five hundred paces from the = well,=20 through which village our route lay. This village, as the bishop said, = was once=20 the farm of Laban the Syrian, and is called Fadana;1 in the = village=20 the memorial of Laban the Syrian, Jacob's father-in-law, was shown to = me; the=20 place was also shown to me where Rachel stole her father's = images.2=20 So, having seen everything in the Name of God, and bidding farewell to = the holy=20 bishop and the holy monks who had deigned to conduct us to the place, we = returned by the route and by the stations through which we had come from = Antioch.

ANTIOCH TO TARSUS

When I had got back to Antioch, I stayed there for a week, while the = things=20 that were necessary for our journey were being prepared. Then, starting = from=20 Antioch and journeying through several stations, I came to the province = called=20 Cilicia, which has Tarsus for its metropolis. I had already been at = Tarsus on my=20 way to Jerusalem, but as the memorial of saint Thecla is at the third = station=20 from Tarsus, in Hisauria, it was very pleasant for me to go there, = especially as=20 it was so very near at hand.

1 i.e., Paddan-Aram =3D plain of Aram (Syria), LXX Mesopotami/a Suri/av. Gen. = xxviii. 2. See=20 Hastings' D.B. i. p.138, for this name of = Mesopotamia.
2=20 Gen. xxxi. 19.=20

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VISIT TO S. THECLA'S CHURCH. RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE

So, setting out from Tarsus, I came to a certain city on the sea, = still in=20 Cilicia, which is called Pompeiopolis. Thence I entered the borders of = Hisauria=20 and stayed in a city called Coricus, and on the third day I arrived at a = city=20 which is called Seleucia in Hisauria;1 on my arrival I went = to the=20 bishop, a truly holy man, formerly a monk, and in that city I saw a very = beautiful church. And as the distance thence to saint Thecla, which is = situated=20 outside the city on a low eminence, was about fifteen hundred paces, I = chose=20 rather to go there in order to make the stay that I intended. There is = nothing=20 at the holy church in that place except numberless cells of men and of = women. I=20 found there a very dear friend of mine, to whose manner of life all in = the East=20 bore testimony, a holy deaconess named Marthana, whom I had known at = Jerusalem,=20 whither she had come for the sake of prayer; she was ruling over the = cells of=20 apotactitae2 and virgins. And when she had seen me, = how can I=20 describe the extent of her joy or of mine ? But to return to the matter = in hand:=20 there are very many cells on the hill and in the midst of it a great = wall which=20 encloses the church containing the very beautiful memorial. The wall

1 Thecla is honoured as "protomartyr" in the East as well = as in=20 the West on Sept. 23rd or 24th. Tradition calls her a disciple of St. = Paul at=20 Iconium, but places her grave (as here) at Seleucia in Isauria. = Justinian built=20 a church in her memory at Constantinople. The Anc. Syr. Mart. = does not=20 mention her.
2 See Introduction, pp. xxix f.=20

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was built to guard the church because of the Hisauri, who are very = malicious=20 and who frequently commit acts of robbery, to prevent them from making = an=20 attempt on the monastery which is established there. When I had arrived = in the=20 Name of God, prayer was made at the memorial, and the whole of the acts = of saint=20 Thecla having been read, I gave endless thanks to Christ our God, who = deigned to=20 fulfil my desires in all things, unworthy and undeserving as I am. Then, = after a=20 stay of two days, when I had seen the holy monks and apotactitae = who were=20 there, both men and women, and when I had prayed and made my communion, = I=20 returned to Tarsus and to my journey. From Tarsus, after a halt of three = days, I=20 set out on my journey in the Name of God, and arriving on the same day = at a=20 station called Mansocrenae,1 which is under Mount Taurus, I = stayed=20 there. On the next day, going under Mount Taurus, and travelling by the = route=20 that was already known to me, through each province that I had traversed = on my=20 way out, to wit, Cappadocia, Galatia, and Bithynia, I arrived at = Chalcedon,=20 where I stayed for the sake of the very famous martyr memorial of saint=20 Euphemia,2 which was already known to me from a former time. = On the=20 next day, crossing the sea, I arrived at Constantinople, giving thanks = to Christ=20 our God who deigned to give me such grace, unworthy and undeserving as I = am, for=20 He had deigned to give me not only the will to go, but also the power of = walking=20 through the places

1 i.e., Mopsucrene (Bernard).
2 = Commemorated=20 both East and West on Sept. 16th, but not given in Anc. Syr. = Mart.=20

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that I desired, and of returning at last to Constantinople. When I = had=20 arrived there, I went through all the churches--that of the Apostles and = all the=20 martyr-memorials, of which there are very many--and I ceased not to give = thanks=20 to Jesus our God, Who had thus deigned to bestow His mercy upon me. From = which=20 place, ladies, light of my eyes, while I send these (letters) to your = affection,=20 I have already purposed, in the Name of Christ our God, to go to Ephesus = in=20 Asia, for the sake of prayer, because of the memorial of the holy and = blessed=20 Apostle John. And if after this I am yet in the body, and am able to see = any=20 other places, I will either tell it to your affection in person, if God = deigns=20 to permit me this, or in anywise, if I have another project in mind, I = will send=20 you news of it in a letter. But do you, ladies, light of my eyes, deign = to=20 remember me, whether I am in the body or out of the body.

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JERUSALEM=20

I
DAILY OFFICES

1. Matins.

Now that your affection may know what is the order of service=20 (operatio) day by day in the holy places, I must inform you, for = I know=20 that you would willingly have this knowledge. Every day before cockcrow = all the=20 doors of the Anastasis1 are opened, and all the monks and = virgins, as=20 they call them here, go thither, and not they alone, but lay people = also, both=20 men and women, who desire to begin their vigil early. And from that hour = to=20 daybreak hymns are said2 and psalms are sung responsively=20 (responduntur), and antiphons in like manner; and prayer is made = after=20 each of the hymns. For priests, deacons, and monks in twos or threes = take it in=20 turn every day to say prayers after each of the hymns or antiphons. But = when day=20 breaks they begin to say the Matin hymns. Thereupon the bishop arrives = with

1 See Introduction, p. xlv.
2 Etheria = constantly=20 uses dicuntur, dicitur applied to hymns and psalms--but = she=20 probably means "sung." See Introduction, pp, xxxix f.=20

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the clergy, and immediately enters into the cave,1 and = from within=20 the rails (cancelli) he first says a prayer for all, mentioning = the names=20 of those whom he wishes to commemorate; he then blesses the catechumens, = afterwards he says a prayer and blesses the faithful. And when the = bishop comes=20 out from within the rails, every one approaches his hand,2 = and he=20 blesses them one by one as he goes out, and the dismissal3 = takes=20 place, by daylight.

2. Sext and None.

In like manner at the sixth hour all go again to the Anastasis, and = psalms=20 and antiphons are said, while the bishop is being summoned; then he = comes

1 See Introduction, pp. xlv f.
2 The = expression "to=20 approach the bishop's hand" has given rise to much discussion. Archbp. = Bernard=20 and Professor Sayce both suggested it was for the purpose of kissing it. = But an=20 account given by Mrs. Gibson and Mrs. Lewis of their visit to the very = ancient=20 Coptic Monastery of Deyr Antonius on the Red Sea, seems to suggest = another=20 solution. They relate that when they attended Mass in the Church of the=20 Monastery . . . "the Service lasted two hours, and towards its close all = present, including ourselves, went up to the door of the sanctuary and = received=20 a blessing from the chief celebrant, which consisted mainly in his = laying a=20 hand on our cheeks." I submitted this as a possible explanation of = Etheria's=20 expression to Mgr. Duchesne and to Dom Cabrol and they both agreed it = appeared=20 to solve the difficulty. Dom Cabrol further suggested that this manner = of=20 conveying a blessing might be the origin of the colaphus or=20 soufflet given in Confirmation in the Western Church. For further = details=20 of this Coptic Mass see The Century Magazine, Sept. 1904, article = "Hidden=20 Egypt," by Mrs. Lewis.
3 It should be noted that the word=20 missa in the text is almost always translated "dismissal," = although it=20 must on some occasions have meant "Mass." This, however, Etheria usually = calls=20 oblatio (offerre). For the ambiguity of the meaning = attached to=20 missa, see Introduction, pp. xl f.=20

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as before, not taking his seat, but he enters at once within the = rails in the=20 Anastasis, that is in the cave, just as in the early morning, and as = then, he=20 again first says a prayer, then he blesses the faithful, and as he comes = out=20 from [within] the rails every one approaches his hand. And the same is = done at=20 the ninth hour as at the sixth.

3. Vespers.

Now at the tenth hour, which they call here = licinicon,1 or=20 as we say lucernare, all the people assemble at the Anastasis in = the same=20 manner, and all the candles and tapers are lit, making a very great = light. Now=20 the light is not introduced from without, but it is brought forth from = within=20 the cave, that is from within the rails, where a lamp is always burning = day and=20 night, and the vesper psalms and antiphons are said, lasting for a = considerable=20 time. Then the bishop is summoned, and he comes and takes a raised seat, = and=20 likewise the priests sit in their proper places, and hymns and antiphons = are=20 said. And when all these have been recited according to custom, the = bishop rises=20 and stands before the rails, that is, before the cave, and one of the = deacons=20 makes the customary commemoration of individuals one by one. And as the = deacon=20 pronounces each name the many little boys who are always standing by, = answer=20 with countless voices: Kyrie eleyson, or as we say Miserere=20 Domine.2 And when the deacon has finished all that he has = to say,=20 first the bishop says a prayer and

1 i. e. to_=20 luxniko&n.
2 For this, see Introduction, p. = xliii.=20

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prays for all, then they all pray, both the faithful and catechumens=20 together. Again the deacon raises his voice, bidding each catechumen to = bow his=20 head where he stands, and the bishop stands and says the blessing over = the=20 catechumens. Again prayer is made, and again the deacon raises his voice = and=20 bids the faithful, each where he stands, to bow the head, and the bishop = likewise blesses the' faithful. Thus the dismissal takes place at the = Anastasis,=20 and one by one all draw near to the bishop's hand. Afterwards the bishop = is=20 conducted from the Anastasis to the Cross [with] hymns, all the people=20 accompanying him, and when he arrives he first says a prayer, then he = blesses=20 the catechumens, then another prayer is said and he blesses the = faithful.=20 Thereupon both the bishop and the whole multitude further proceed behind = the=20 Cross, where all that was done before the Cross is repeated, and they = approach=20 the hand of the bishop behind the Cross as they did at the Anastasis and = before=20 the Cross. Moreover, there are hanging everywhere a vast number of great = glass=20 chandeliers, and there are also a vast number of = cereofala,1=20 before the Anastasis, before the Cross and behind the Cross, for the = whole does=20 not end until darkness has set in. This is the order of daily services=20 (operatio) at the Cross and at the Anastasis throughout the six = days.

1 i. e. candles on tall candlesticks = (Ducange).=20

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II=20

SUNDAY OFFICES=20

1. Vigil

But on the seventh day,1 that is on the Lord's Day, the = whole=20 multitude assembles before cockcrow, in as great numbers as the place = can hold,=20 as at Easter, in the basilica which is near the Anastasis, but outside = the=20 doors, where lights are hanging for the purpose. And for fear that they = should=20 not be there at cockcrow they come beforehand and sit down there. Hymns = as well=20 as antiphons are said, and prayers are made between the several hymns = and=20 antiphons, for at the vigils there are always both priests and deacons = ready=20 there for the assembling of the multitude, the custom being that the = holy places=20 are not opened before cockcrow. Now as soon as the first cock has = crowed, the=20 bishop arrives and enters the cave at the Anastasis; all the doors are = opened=20 and the whole multitude enters the Anastasis, where countless lights are = already=20 burning. And when the people have entered, one of the priests says a = psalm to=20 which all respond, and afterwards prayer is made; then one of the = deacons says a=20 psalm and prayer is again made, a third psalm is said by one of the = clergy,=20 prayer is made for the third time and there is a commemoration of all. = After=20 these three psalms and three prayers are ended, lo! censers are brought = into the=20 cave of the Anastasis so that the whole basilica

1 Etheria here calls the Lord's Day the seventh day, but = only=20 because she has just before spoken of the six days that precede it.=20

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of the Anastasis is filled with odours.1 And then the = bishop,=20 standing within the rails, takes the book of the Gospel, and proceeding = to the=20 door, himself reads the (narrative of the) Resurrection of the Lord. And = when=20 the reading is begun, there is so great a moaning and groaning among = all, with=20 so many tears, that the hardest of heart might be moved to tears for = that the=20 Lord had borne such things for us. After the reading of the Gospel the = bishop=20 goes out, and is accompanied to the Cross by all the people with hymns, = there=20 again a psalm is said and prayer is made, after which he blesses the = faithful=20 and the dismissal takes place, and as he comes out all approach to his = hand. And=20 forthwith the bishop betakes himself to his house, and from that hour = all the=20 monks return to the Anastasis, where psalms and antiphons, with prayer = after=20 each psalm or antiphon, are said until daylight; the priests and deacons = also=20 keep watch in turn daily at the Anastasis with the people, but of the = lay=20 people, whether men or women, those who are so minded, remain in the = place until=20 daybreak, and those who are not, return to their houses and betake = themselves to=20 sleep.

2. Morning Services.

Now at daybreak because it is the Lord's Day every one proceeds to = the=20 greater church, built by Constantine, which is situated in Golgotha = behind the=20 Cross, where all things are done which are customary

1 Assuming the earlier date of this pilgrimage, we have = probably=20 here the earliest mention extant of incense being used in a Christian = church at=20 the time of public worship: see Dictionary of Prayer Book, p. = 406, s.v.=20

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everywhere1 on the Lord's Day. But the custom here is that = of all=20 the priests who take their seats, as many as are willing, preach, and = after them=20 all the bishop preaches, and these sermons are always on the Lord's Day, = in=20 order that the people may always be instructed in the Scriptures and in = the love=20 of God. The delivery of these sermons greatly delays the dismissal from = the=20 church, so that the dismissal does [not] take place before the fourth or = perhaps=20 the fifth hour. But when the dismissal from the church is made in the = manner=20 that is customary everywhere, the monks accompany the bishop with hymns = from the=20 church to the Anastasis, and as he approaches with hymns all the doors = of the=20 basilica of the Anastasis are opened, and the people, that is the = faithful,=20 enter, but not the catechumens. And after the people the bishop enters, = and goes=20 at once within the rails of the cave of the martyrium. Thanks are first = given to=20 God, then prayer is made for all, after which the deacon bids all bow = their=20 heads, where they stand, and the bishop standing within the inner rails = blesses=20 them and goes out, each one drawing near to his hand as he makes his = exit. Thus=20 the dismissal is delayed until nearly the fifth or sixth hour. And in = like=20 manner it is done at lucernare, according to daily custom.

This then is the custom observed every day throughout the whole year = except=20 on solemn days, to the keeping of which we will refer later on. But = among all=20 things it is a special feature that they arrange that suitable psalms = and=20 antiphons are said on every occasion, both those said by night, or in = the=20 morning,

1 This of course includes the celebration of the = Eucharist.=20

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as well as those throughout the day, at the sixth hour, the ninth = hour, or at=20 lucernare all being so appropriate and so reasonable as to bear = on the=20 matter in hand. And they proceed to the greater church, which was built = by=20 Constantine, and which is situated in Golgotha, that is, behind the = Cross, on=20 every Lord's Day throughout the year except on the one Sunday of = Pentecost, when=20 they proceed to Sion, as you will find mentioned below; but even then = they go to=20 Sion before the third hour, the dismissal having been first made in the = greater=20 church.

* * * * * *

[A leaf is wanting.]=20

III=20

FESTIVALS AT EPIPHANY=20

1. Night Station at Bethlehem.1

* * * * * * *

Blessed is he that cometh in the Name of the Lord, and the = rest which=20 follows.2 And since, for the sake

1 The Old Armenian Lectionary of the eighth or ninth = century, of=20 which there are two codices with certain variations, one in the Bodleian = at=20 Oxford and one at Paris, has preserved for us the antiphons, psalms and = lections=20 in use at Jerusalem. They are here given, as far as they bear on = Etheria's=20 narrative. At the night station at Bethlehem, Gregory Asharuni, a = commentator=20 about 690, mentions that they "assemble in the shepherd's hut" at the = ninth=20 hour, and this canon is performed: Ps. xxiii. 1=E3[the small=20 1 here indicates that ver. 1 is sung as an antiphon after = each verse=20 of Ps. xxiii.: and so elsewhere]; Alleluiah; Ps. Ixxx.; S. Luke ii. = 8-20; S.=20 Matt. i. 18-25; Gen. i.-iii. 20; Isa. vii. 10-18; Exod. xiv. 24-XV. 22; = Mic. v.=20 1-8; Prov. i. 1-9, Isa. ix. 5-7; xi. I-9; xxxv. 4-8; xlii. 1 7; Dan. = iii. 1-90;=20 Tit. ii. 1 1-15; Alleluiah; Ps. cx.; S. Matt. ii. 1-12.
2 = S. Matt.=20 xxi. 9.=20

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of the monks who go on foot, it is necessary to walk slowly, the = arrival in=20 Jerusalem thus takes place at the hour when one man begins to be able to = recognize another, that is, close upon but a little before daybreak. And = on=20 arriving there, the bishop and all with him immediately enter the = Anastasis,=20 where an exceedingly great number of lights are already burning. There a = psalm=20 is said, prayer is made, first the catechumens and then the faithful are = blessed=20 by the bishop; then the bishop retires, and every one returns to his = lodging to=20 take rest, but the monks remain there until daybreak and recite hymns.

2. Morning Services at Jerusalem.

But after the people have taken rest, at the beginning of the second = hour=20 they all assemble in the greater church, which is in = Golgotha.1

Now it would be superfluous to describe the adornment either of the = church,=20 or of the Anastasis, or of the Cross, or in Bethlehem on that day; you = see there=20 nothing but gold and gems and silk. For if you look at the veils, they = are made=20 wholly of silk striped with gold, and if you look at the curtains, they = too are=20 made wholly of silk striped with gold. The church vessels too, of every = kind,=20 gold and jewelled, are brought out on that day, and indeed, who could = either=20 reckon or describe the number and weight

1 The Bodleian Codex of the Old Arm. Lect. says that on = the second=20 day they assemble in the shrine of S. Stephen, but on the third day they = go to=20 the holy shrine in the city (i.e. the martyrium, or as Etheria = calls it,=20 the greater church in Golgotha), and this canon is prescribed: Ps.=20 cx.3 ; Heb. i. 1-14; Ps. cx., S. Matt. ii. 13-23, but Etheria = seems=20 to have confused the order of the fourth, fifth and sixth days.=20

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of the cereofala,1 or of the = cicindelae,2=20 or of the lucernae,3 or of the various vessels? And = what shall=20 I say of the decoration of the fabric itself, which Constantine, at his = mother's=20 instigation, decorated with gold, mosaic, and costly marbles, as far as = the=20 resources of his kingdom allowed him, that is, the greater church as = well as the=20 Anastasis, at the Cross, and the other holy places in Jerusalem ? But to = return=20 to the matter in hand: the dismissal4 takes place on the first day in = the=20 greater church, which is in Golgotha, and when they preach or read the = several=20 lessons, or recite hymns, all are appropriate to the day. And afterwards = when=20 the dismissal from the church has been made, they repair to the = Anastasis with=20 hymns, according to custom, so that the dismissal takes place about the = sixth=20 hour. And on this day lucernare also takes place according to the = daily=20 use.

3. Octave of the Festival.

On the second day also they proceed in like manner to the church in = Golgotha,=20 and also on the third day; thus the feast is celebrated with all this

1 See above, p. 48
2 Lamps for burning oil. = The word=20 is used four times by S. Gregory of Tours. We also find the expression = "oleum=20 cicindelis" in the Life of S. Nicetius, Bishop of Lyons, and = that=20 glass or pottery was probably the material is shown by the=20 following:--"Cicindela--de manibus super lapides lapsa est, quae nec = versa est,=20 nec fracta, nec extincta," which occurs in Messianus = Presbyter's Life=20 of S. Caesarius of Arles. As late as the twelfth century we still = find the=20 word in use. Beroldus was himself a cicendelarius at Milan, and = fully=20 describes the duty of that functionary.
3 Lanterns, or=20 lamps.
4 Here again, although not specified, the Eucharist = must=20 have been celebrated.=20

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joyfulness for three days up to the sixth hour in the church built by = Constantine. On the fourth1 day it is celebrated in like = manner with=20 similar festal array in Eleona, the very beautiful church which stands = on the=20 Mount of Olives; on the fifth day in the Lazarium, which is distant = about one=20 thousand five hundred paces from Jerusalem; on the sixth2 day = in=20 Sion, on the seventh3 day in the Anastasis, and on the eighth = day at=20 the Cross. Thus, then, is the feast celebrated with all this joyfulness = and=20 festal array throughout the eight days in all the holy places which I = have=20 mentioned above. And in Bethlehem also throughout the entire eight days = the=20 feast is celebrated with similar festal array and joyfulness daily by = the=20 priests and by all the clergy there, and by the monks who are appointed = in that=20 place. For from the hour when all return by night to Jerusalem with the = bishop,=20 the monks of that place4 keep vigil in the church in = Bethlehem,=20 reciting hymns and antiphons, but it is=20

1 On the fourth day the Paris Codex of the Old Arm. Lect. = makes=20 the assembly in holy Sion, and this canon is performed: Ps. cx. ; Gal. = iv. 1-7;=20 Ps. cxxxii. ; S. Luke i. 26-38. The fifth day is on the Mount of Olives. = Canon:=20 Ps. xcix. ; Heb. xii. 18-27; Ps. xv. ; S. Luke i. 39-56.
2 = The=20 Paris Codex makes the assembly in the shrine of Lazarus, and they = celebrate his=20 raising. Canon: Ps. xxx.; 1 Thess. iv. 12-14; Ps. xl. ; S. John xi.=20 1-46.
3 The Paris Codex has on the seventh day: "They = assemble in=20 holy Golgotha and perform the canon: Ps. xcviii. ; Col. ii. 1-15; = Alleluiah; Ps.=20 lxxxiv. ; S. Luke ii. 21." Here Etheria and the Lectionary again agree, = but the=20 Lectionary has not prescribed anything for the eighth day, and it = concludes:=20 "Here ends the canon of the Holy Epiphany. By all the martyrs is this = canon=20 performed." The later Codex has: "Here ends the canon of the assemblage = of holy=20 Epiphany of the Lord. In all commemorations of the holy martyrs this = canon is=20 performed."
4 i.e. of Bethlehem.=20

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necessary that the bishop should always keep these days in Jerusalem. = And=20 immense crowds, not of monks only, but also of the laity, both men and = women,=20 flock together to Jerusalem from every quarter for the solemn and joyous = observance of that day.

4. The Presentation.1 Mass. The fortieth day = after=20 the Epiphany is undoubtedly celebrated here with the very highest = honour, for on=20 that day there is a procession, in which all take part, in the = Anastasis, and=20 all things are done in their order with the greatest joy, just as at = Easter. All=20 the priests, and after them the bishop, preach, always taking for their = subject=20 that part of the Gospel where Joseph and Mary brought the Lord into the = Temple=20 on the fortieth day, and Symeon and Anna the prophetess, the daughter of = Phanuel, saw Him,--treating of the words which they spake when they saw = the=20 Lord, and of that offering which His parents made.2 And when=20 everything that is customary has been done in order, the sacrament is=20 celebrated, and the dismissal takes place.3

1 The Paris Codex gives February 15 as "the Quadragesima = of the=20 birth of our Lord Jesus Christ. They assemble in the shrine [i.e. = martyrium] of the city, and this canon is performed: Ps. xcviii. ; = Ktzord=20 [i.e. Antiphon], All the ends . . . ; Gal. iii. 24-29; Alleluiah; = Ps.=20 xcvi. 2; S. Luke ii. 22-40." The Bodleian Codex has February 14 for this = Festival.
2 S. Luke ii. 22-39.
3 = Sacramenta=20 aguntur et sic fit missa.=20

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IV

LENT

And when the Paschal days come they are observed thus:1 = Just as=20 with us forty days are kept before Easter, so here eight weeks are kept = before=20 Easter. And eight weeks are kept because there is no fasting on the = Lord's Days,=20 nor on the Sabbaths, except on the one Sabbath on which the Vigil of = Easter=20 falls, in which case the fast is obligatory. With the exception then of = that one=20 day, there is never fasting on any Sabbath here throughout the year. = Thus,=20 deducting the eight Lord's Days and the seven Sabbaths (for on the one = Sabbath,=20 as I said above, the fast is obligatory) from the eight weeks, there = remain=20 forty-one fast days, which they call here Eortae, that is=20 Quadragesimae.2

1 No traces of the Quadragesima are found before the = fourth=20 century. The fifth Canon of the Council of Nicaea (325) contains the = earliest=20 mention of it. Various endeavours were made in various countries to = combine the=20 Quadragesima with Holy Week. S. Chrysostom speaks of the Quadragesima = being=20 finished and the "Great week" beginning. At Rome and at Alexandria Holy = Week was=20 included in the Quadragesima in such a manner that the whole fast lasted = only=20 six weeks, but at Constantinople and in the countries observing the use = of=20 Antioch the fast was observed for seven weeks. The Sundays only were = excepted at=20 Rome, but at Constantinople both the Sundays and Saturdays, with the = exception=20 of Easter Eve, were exempt from fasting.--(Duchesne, Christian = Worship,=20 4th edit., pp. 242 f.)
2 The Old Arm. Lect. has: "For the = Holy=20 Quadragesima: first lection, Isa. i. 16-20; second, Ezek. xviii. 20-23; = third,=20 Rom. vi. 3-14; fourth, Col. ii. 8 foll. ; fifth, Heb. xi. 1-31; sixth, = Isa. xlv.=20 17-26; seventh, Eph. iii. 14-iv. 13; eighth, Jer. xxxii. 19-44; ninth, = Job=20 xxxviii. 2-xxxix. 35; tenth, 1 Cor viii. 5-ix. 23; eleventh, Heb. i. = 1-12;=20 twelfth, Isa. vii. 11-vii 10; thirteenth, Isa. liii. 1-liv. 5; = fourteenth, 1=20 Cor. xv. 1-28 {continued next page}=20

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1. Services on Sundays.

Now the several days of the several weeks are kept thus:

On the Lord's Day after the first cockcrow the bishop reads in the = Anastasis=20 the account of the Lord's Resurrection from the Gospel, as on all Lord's = Days=20 throughout the whole year, and everything is done at the Anastasis and = at the=20 Cross as on all Lord's Days throughout the year, up to daybreak. = Afterwards, in=20 the morning, they proceed to the greater church, called the martyrium, = which is=20 in Golgotha behind the Cross, and all things that are customary on the = Lord's=20 Days are done there. In like manner also when the dismissal from the = church has=20 been made, they go with hymns to the Anastasis, as they always do on the = Lord's=20 Days, and while these things are being done the fifth hour is reached.=20 Lucernare, however, takes place at its own hour, as usual, at the = Anastasis and at the Cross, and in the various holy places; on the = Lord's Day=20 the ninth hour is1 kept.

2. Weekday Services.

On the second weekday they go at the first cockcrow to the Anastasis, = as they=20 do throughout the year, and everything that is usual is done until = morning. Then=20 at the third hour they go to the

{footnote continuing from page above} fifteenth, Dan. vii. 13-27; = sixteenth,=20 1 Cor. xii. 1-7; seventeenth, 1 Cor. xii. 1-7; eighteenth, Ezek. xxxvii. = 1-14;=20 nineteenth, 1 Tim. iii. 14-16. Here ends the canon of them that are = going to be=20 baptized."
1 Mgr. Duchesne would here insert "not."=20

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Anastasis, and the things are done that are customary throughout the = year at=20 the sixth hour, for this going at the third hour in Quadragesima is = additional.=20 At the sixth and ninth hours also; and at lucernare, everything = is done=20 that is customary throughout the whole year at the holy places. And on = the third=20 weekday all things are done as on the second weekday.

3. Wednesday and Friday.

Again, on the fourth1 weekday they go by night to the = Anastasis,=20 and all the usual things are done until morning, and also at the third = and sixth=20 hours. But at the ninth hour they go to Sion, as is customary at that = hour on=20 the fourth and sixth2 weekdays throughout the year, for the = reason=20 that the fast is always kept here on the fourth and sixth weekdays even = by the=20 catechumens, except a martyrs' day should occur. For if a martyrs' day = should=20 chance to occur on the fourth or on the sixth weekday in Quadragesima, = they do=20 not go to Sion at the ninth hour. But on the days of Quadragesima, as I = said=20 above, they proceed to Sion on the fourth weekday at the ninth hour, = according=20 to the custom of the whole year, and all things that are customary at = the ninth=20 hour are done, except the oblation, for, in order that the

1 The Old Arm. Lect. has: "In the holy Quadragesima, in = the first=20 week on the fourth day of the week, they assemble at the tenth hour in = holy=20 Sion, and this canon is performed: Exod. i. 1-ii. 10; Joel i. 14-20; Ps. = li.=20 5ff." (Gregory Asharuni alone gives the fifth verse as the=20 antiphon.)
2 The Old Arm. Lect. : "Friday, at the tenth = hour they=20 assemble in holy Sion, and this canon is performed: Deut. vi. 4-vii. 10; = Job vi.=20 2-vii. 13; Isa. xl. 1-8; Ps. xli.4"=20

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people may always be instructed in the law, both the bishop and the = priest=20 preach diligently. But when the dismissal has been made, the people = escort the=20 bishop with hymns thence to the Anastasis, so that it is already the = hour of=20 lucernare when he enters the Anastasis; then hymns and antiphons = are=20 said, prayers are made, and the service (missa) of = lucernare takes=20 place in the Anastasis and at the Cross. And the service of = lucernare is=20 always later on those days in Quadragesima than on other days throughout = the=20 year. On the fifth weekday everything is done as on the second and third = weekday. On the sixth weekday everything is done as on the fourth, = including the=20 going to Sion at the ninth hour, and the escorting of the bishop thence = to the=20 Anastasis with hymns.

4 Saturday.

But on the sixth weekday the vigils are observed in the Anastasis = from the=20 hour of their arrival from Sion with hymns, until morning, that is, from = the=20 hour of lucernare when they entered, to the morning of the next = day, that=20 is, the Sabbath. And the oblation is made in the Anastasis the earlier, = that the=20 dismissal may take place before sunrise. Throughout the whole night = psalms are=20 said responsively in turn with antiphons and with various lections, the = whole=20 lasting until morning, and the dismissal, which takes place on the = Sabbath at=20 the Anastasis, is before sunrise, that is, the oblation, so that the = dismissal=20 may take place in the Anastasis at the hour when the sun begins to rise. = Thus,=20 then, is each week of Quadragesima kept, the dismissal taking=20

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place earlier on the Sabbath, i.e. before sunrise, as I said, = in order=20 that the hebdomadarii, as they are called here, may finish their = fast=20 earlier. For the custom of the fast in Quadragesima is that the = dismissal on the=20 Lord's Day is at the fifth hour in order that they whom they call=20 hebdomadarii, that is, they who keep the weeks' fast, may take = food. And=20 when these have taken breakfast on the Lord's Day, they do not eat until = the=20 Sabbath morning after they have communicated in the Anastasis. It is for = their=20 sake, then, that they may finish their fast the sooner, that the = dismissal on=20 the Sabbath at the Anastasis is before sunrise. For their sake the = dismissal is=20 in the morning, as I said; not that they alone communicate, but all who = are so=20 minded communicate on that day in the Anastasis.

5. The Fast.

This is the custom of the fast in Quadragesima: some, when they have = eaten=20 after the dismissal on the Lord's Day, that is, about the fifth or sixth = hour,=20 do not eat throughout the whole week until after the dismissal at the = Anastasis=20 on the Sabbath; these are they who keep the weeks' fast.

Nor, after having eaten in the morning, do they eat in the evening of = the=20 Sabbath, but they take a meal on the next day, that is, on the Lord's = Day, after=20 the dismissal from the church at the fifth hour or later, and then they = do not=20 breakfast until the Sabbath comes round, as I have said above. For the = custom=20 here is that all who are apotacticae, as they call them here, = whether men=20 or women, eat only once a day on=20

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the day when they do eat, not only in Quadragesima, but throughout = the whole=20 year. But if any of the apotacticae cannot keep the entire week = of=20 fasting as described above, they take supper in the middle (of the = week), on the=20 fifth day, all through Quadragesima. And if any one cannot do even this, = he=20 keeps two days' fast (in the week) all through Quadragesima, and they = who cannot=20 do even this, take a meal every evening. For no one exacts from any how = much he=20 should do, but each does what he can, nor is he praised who has done = much, nor=20 is he blamed who has done less; that is the custom here. For their food = during=20 the days of Quadragesima is as follows:--they taste neither bread which = cannot=20 be weighed,1 nor oil, nor anything that grows on trees, but = only=20 water and a little gruel made of flour. Quadragesima is kept thus, as we = have=20 said. And at the end of the weeks' fast the vigil is kept in the = Anastasis from=20 the hour of lucernare on the sixth weekday, when the people come = with=20 psalms from Sion, to the morning of the Sabbath, when the oblation is = made in=20 the Anastasis. And the second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth weeks in=20 Quadragesima are kept as the first.2=20

1 Panem, quid liberari non potest, but Archbp. = Bernard=20 reads qui deliquari and translates: "bread which cannot be = strained as a=20 liquid." I have adopted Gamurrini's conjecture librari. =
2=20 In the Old Arrn. Lect. there are special lections for all these weeks. = They will=20 be found in the Rituale Armenorum, Appendix II., pp. 519f. As = they do not=20 specially figure in Etheria's narrative, they are not given here. The = places of=20 assembly in Jerusalem are specified with each day's lections.=20

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V

HOLY WEEK AND THE FESTIVALS AT EASTER=20

1. Saturday before Palm Sunday.--Station at Bethany.

Now when the seventh week has come, that is, when two weeks, = including the=20 seventh, are left before Easter,1 everything is done on each = day as=20 in the. weeks that are past, except that the vigils of the sixth = weekday, which=20 were kept in the Anastasis during the first six weeks, are, in the = seventh week,=20 kept in Sion, and with the same customs that obtained during the six = weeks in=20 the Anastasis. For throughout the whole vigil psalms and antiphons are = said=20 appropriate both to the place and to the day.

And when the morning of the Sabbath2 begins to dawn, the = bishop=20 offers the oblation. And at the dismissal the archdeacon lifts his voice = and=20 says: "Let us all be ready to-day at the seventh hour in the Lazarium." = And so,=20 as the seventh hour approaches, all go to the Lazarium, that is, = Bethany,=20 situated at about the second milestone from the city. And as they go = from=20 Jerusalem to the Lazarium, there is, about five hundred paces from the = latter=20 place, a church in the street on that spot where Mary the

1 Mgr. Duchesne notes there were variations in the length = of the=20 Quadragesima at Jerusalem (Christian Worship, p. 243 note 4, 4th = edit.).=20 The Old Arm. Lect. reckons Holy Week as the seventh, and Etheria the = eighth of=20 Quadragesima. The meeting-places also do not quite agree in the two=20 MSS.
2 For the Saturday before Palm Sunday the Old Arm. = Lect.=20 gives: "The sixth day before Zatik (the Passover), on the Sabbath they = assemble=20 in the Lazarium, and this canon is performed: Ps. xxx.3 ; 1 = Thess.=20 iv. 12-17; Alleluiah; Ps. xl. ; S. John xi. 55-xii. 11."=20

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sister of Lazarus met with the Lord.1 Here, when the = bishop=20 arrives, all the monks meet him, and the people enter the church, and = one hymn=20 and one antiphon are said, and that passage is read in the Gospel where = the=20 sister of Lazarus meets the Lord. Then, after prayer has been made, and = when all=20 have been blessed, they go thence with hymns to the Lazarium And on = arriving at=20 the Lazarium, so great a multitude assembles that not only the place = itself, but=20 also the fields around, are full of people. Hymns and antiphons suitable = to the=20 day and to the place are said, and likewise all the lessons are read. = Then,=20 before the dismissal, notice is given of Easter, that is, the priest = ascends to=20 a higher place and reads the passage that is written in the Gospel: = When=20 Jesus six days before the Passover had come to Bethany, and the=20 rest.2 So, that passage having been read and notice given of = Easter,=20 the dismissal is made. This is done on that day because, as it is = written in the=20 Gospel, these events took place in Bethany six days before the Passover; = there=20 being six days from the Sabbath to the fifth weekday on which, after = supper, the=20 Lord was taken by night. Then all return to the city direct to the = Anastasis,=20 and lucernare takes place according to custom.

2. Palm Sunday.=E3(a) Services in the Churches.

On the next day, that is, the Lord's Day,3 which

1 S. John xi. 29, 30.
2 S. John xii. 1=20 ff.
3 The Old Arm. Lect. has: "On the Day of the Palms = they=20 assemble in the holy Shrine of the city, and this canon is fufilled: Ps. = xcviii.=20 8 ; Eph. i. 3-10; Alleluiah ; Ps. xcix. ; S. Matt. xxi. 1-11.''=20

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begins the Paschal week, and which they call here the Great Week, = when all=20 the customary services from cockcrow until morning have taken place in = the=20 Anastasis and at the Cross, they proceed on the morning of the Lord's = Day=20 according to custom to the greater church, which is called the = martyrium. It is=20 called the martyrium because it is in Golgotha behind the Cross, where = the Lord=20 suffered. When all that is customary has been observed in the great = church, and=20 before the dismissal is made, the archdeacon lifts his voice and says = first:=20 "Throughout the whole week, beginning from to-morrow, let us all = assemble in the=20 martyrium, that is, in the great church, at the ninth hour." Then he = lifts his=20 voice again, saying: "Let us all be ready to-day in Eleona at the = seventh hour."=20 So when the dismissal has been made in the great church, that is, the = martyrium,=20 the bishop is escorted with hymns to the Anastasis, and after all things = that=20 are customary on the Lord's pay have been done there, after the = dismissal from=20 the martyrium, every one hastens home to eat, that all may be ready at = the=20 beginning of the seventh hour in the church in Eleona, on the Mount of = Olives,=20 where is the cave in which the Lord was wont to teach.

(b) Procession with Palms on the Mount of Olives. Accordingly = at the=20 seventh hour1 all the people

1 The Old Arm. Lect. has: "On the same day, at the ninth = hour,=20 they go forth to the Mount of Olives with palm branches; and there they = pray and=20 sing psalms until the tenth hour. And after that they go down into the = holy=20 Anastasis, chanting Ps. cxviii.26 " [N.B.=E3This psalm formed = part of=20 the Jewish {cont.}=20

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go up to the Mount of Olives, that is, to Eleona, and the bishop with = them,=20 to the church, where hymns and antiphons suitable to the day and to the = place=20 are said, and lessons in like manner. And when the ninth hour approaches = they go=20 up with hymns to the Imbomon, that is, to the place whence the Lord = ascended=20 into heaven, and there they sit down, for all the people are always = bidden to=20 sit when the bishop is present; the deacons alone always stand. Hymns = and=20 antiphons suitable to the day and to the place are said, interspersed = with=20 lections and prayers. And as the eleventh hour approaches, the passage = from the=20 Gospel is read, where the children, carrying branches and palms, met the = Lord,=20 saying; Blessed is He that cometh in the name of the = Lord,1=20 and the bishop immediately rises, and all the people with him, and they = all go=20 on foot from the top of the Mount of Olives, all the people going before = him=20 with hymns and antiphons, answering one to another: Blessed is He = that cometh=20 in the Name of the Lord. And all the children in the neighbourhood, = even=20 those who are too young to walk, are carried by their parents on their=20 shoulders, all of them bearing branches, some of palms and some of = olives,2 and=20 thus the bishop is escorted in the same manner as the Lord was of old. = For all,=20 even those of rank, both matrons and men, accompany the bishop all the = way on=20 foot in this manner, making these

{footnote continued} Hallel. It will be observed that Etheria's ear = caught=20 the ever-recurring antiphon: "Blessed is He that cometh in the name of = the Lord"=20 (v. 26), but she does not seem to have recognized the psalm. According = to the=20 ancient use, the antiphon was sung after each verse as a=20 refrain.]
1 S. Matt. xxi. 9.
2 S. Matt. = xxi. 8.=20

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responses, from the top of the mount to the city, and thence through = the=20 whole city to the Anastasis, going very slowly lest the poeple should be = wearied; and thus they arrive at the Anastasis at a late hour. And on = arriving,=20 although it is late, lucernare takes place, with prayer at the = Cross;=20 after which the people are dismissed.

3. Monday in Holy Week

On the next day, the second weekday, everything that is customary is = done=20 from the first cockcrow until morning in the Anastasis; also at the = third and=20 sixth hours everything is done that is customary throughout the whole of = Quadragesima. But at the ninth hour all assemble in the great church, = that is=20 the martyrium,1 where hymns and antiphons are said = continuously until=20 the first hour of the night and lessons suitable to the day and the = place are=20 read, interspersed always with prayers. Lucernare takes place = when its=20 hour approaches, that is, so that it is already night when the dismissal = at the=20 martyrium is made. When the dismissal has been made, the bishop is = escorted=20 thence with hymns to the Anastasis, where, when he has entered, one hymn = is=20 said, followed by a prayer; the catechumens and then the faithful are = blessed,=20 and the dismissal is made.

1 The Old Arm. Lect. Has: "The seocnd day of the week of = the Fast=20 of Zatik (Pascha) they assemble in the holy Shrine of the city, and this = canon=20 is fulfilled: Gen i. 1-iii. 20; Prov. i. 1-9; Isa. xl. 1-8; Ps. = lxv.5=20 "=20

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4. Tuesday in Holy Week. On the third weekday1 = everything=20 is done as on the second, with this one thing added--that late at night, = after=20 the dismissal of the martyrium, and after the going to the Anastasis and = after=20 the dismissal there, all proceed at that hour by night to the church, = which is=20 on the mount Eleona. And when they have arrived at that church the = bishop enters=20 the cave where the Lord was wont to teach His disciples,2 and = after=20 receiving the book of the Gospel, he stands and himself reads the words = of the=20 Lord which are written in the Gospel according to Matthew, where He = says:=20 Take heed that no man deceive you.3 And the bishop = reads=20 through the whole of that discourse, and when he has read it, prayer is = made,=20 the catechumens and the faithful are blessed, the dismissal is made, and = every=20 one returns from the mount to his house, it being already very late at = night.

5. Wednesday in Holy Week.

On the fourth weekday everything is done as on the second and third = weekdays=20 throughout the whole day from the first cockcrow onwards, but after the=20 dismissal has taken place at the martyrium4 by night,

1 The Old Arm. Lect. has: "On the third day of the week = [the later=20 Bodleian Codex has: 'they assemble on the Mount of Olives,' thus = agreeing with=20 Etheria], at the tenth hour. And this canon is performed: Gen. vi. 9-ix. = 17;=20 Prov. ix. 1-11; Isa. xi. 9-17 {xl. 9-17?}; Ps. xxv.1 ; S. = Matt. xxiv.=20 3-xxvi. 3."
2 Cf. S. Matt. xxiv. 3.
3 S. = Matt. xxiv.=20 4.
4 The old Arm. Lect. has : "The fourth day of the week = at the=20 tenth hour they assemble in the holy Shrine of the city, and this canon = is=20 performed: Gen. xviii. 1-xix. 30; Prov. i. {Continued next page}=20

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and the bishop has been escorted with hymns to the Anastasis, he at = once=20 enters the cave which is in the Anastasis, and stands within the rails; = but the=20 priest stands before the rails and receives the Gospel, and reads the = passage=20 where Judas Iscariot went to the Jews and stated what they should give = him that=20 he should betray the Lord.1 And when the passage has been = read, there=20 is such a moaning and groaning of all the people that no one can help = being=20 moved to tears at that hour. Afterwards prayer follows, then the = blessing, first=20 of the catechumens, and then of the faithful, and the dismissal is made.

6. Maundy Thursday.--(a) Mass celebrated twice.

On the fifth weekday everything that is customary is done from the = first=20 cockcrow until morning at the Anastasis, and also at the third and at = the sixth=20 hours. But at the eighth hour all the people gather together at the=20 martyrium2 according to custom, only

{footnote continued from above} 1-19; Zech. xi. 11-14; Ps. = xli.4=20 And after the psalm they go down into the holy Anastasis, and a lection = is read,=20 S. Matt. xxvi. 14-16."
1 S. Matt. xxvi. = 14,15.
2 The=20 Old Arm. Lect. has: "The fifth day of the week is of the old Zatik, as = touching=20 which Jesus said to His disciples, 'With desire have I desired to eat = with you=20 this Zatik.' They assemble at the seventh hour in the holy shrine of the = city,=20 and this canon is performed: Gen. xxii. 1-18; Isa. lxi. 1-6; Acts i. = 15-26; Ps.=20 lv.22 Their words, etc. Then the catechumens are = dismissed.=20 Again, Is. xxiii.5 {Ps xxiii. 5?}; 1 Cor. xi. 23-33; S. Matt. = xxvi.=20 20-39.
And then the sacrifice is offered in the holy shrine, and = before the=20 holy Cross. And in the same hour they proceed to holy Sion. The canon = and=20 Apostle are the same: For I received from the Lord: S. Mark xiv. = 12-26.
And=20 in the same hour they go forth to the Mount of Olives, and perform the = evening=20 service of worship. And they join {footnote continued}=20

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earlier than on other days, because the dismissal must be made = sooner. Then,=20 when the people are gathered